"I didn't get to the top of the food chain to become a vegetarian."
The original Salt Lick is an Austin, Texas, barbecue institution that started small with just a few picnic tables and benches. It recently has been affected by the encroaching Austin suburban sprawl, but still manages to retain its original country ambience. The new Las Vegas outpost of this restaurant captures much of the rustic charm—as much as you can in a billion-dollar casino—but loses some of the laid-back quality in the translation. One nice touch is the bank of windows at one side of the restaurant with views of a water feature. It made the space feel more open and cheerful than the usual casino property.
But this is barbecue and, ambience aside, the important thing is the food. Especially the meat. Scott Roberts, Thurman's son, brought to Las Vegas the original recipes, the spices and the open pit. With an emphasis on the smokiness rather than the sweet, those who have only experienced the sugary tomato-based flavors of other local barbecue restaurants will find the Salt Lick's vinegar-based, not-very-sweet sauce either a revelation or a shock. This is not a preparation designed to cover up the taste of inferior ingredients, but one intended to showcase the finest of meats and poultry. The flavor of the brisket, link sausage, ribs and especially the chicken shines through the sauces and makes every dish taste like its primary food product.
The pork ribs we had were tender and juicy, keeping some of the fat for added flavor, and the slow-smoked link sausage was rich and mildly spicy. The best, though, were the brisket and the chicken. The brisket was smoky and juicy, yet rendered of all excess fat. It was so tender that my husband, who recently broke his collarbone, was able to cut it with a fork using his "wrong" hand. But the hit of the dinner was the chicken. Amazingly tender and moist, the chicken's smokiness enhanced the flavor without overwhelming it.
The appetizers are equally well-executed. A word of warning—the appetizer plates are large enough for a party of four to share. For light eaters, an appetizer plate might even serve as an entrée. We had the Boneless Chicken Wings and took half of it home. These were huge, from all-white-meat chicken, breaded and deep-fried, served dripping in a tasty habañero sauce and accompanied by a chunky blue-cheese dressing.
And save room for dessert. The pecan pie and peach and berry cobblers are all house-made and baked fresh daily.
The "sides," though, do not measure up to the quality of the rest of the menu. They are surprisingly dull. The coleslaw lacks tang, tasting mostly of salt and pepper. The mildly vinegared potato salad is somewhat better, but the pinto beans are just plain bland.
There are some decent beers on tap, including Bass Ale, Pyramid Hefeweizen (great with barbecue) and Newcastle Brown Ale. And, if you must have the all-Texas experience, there is Shiner Bock—a Texas favorite, but a decidedly mediocre brew. There are some interesting house specialty cocktails, including Austin Iced Tea, made in true Texas style with chili pepper-infused Absolut vodka.
Service throughout was friendly, cheerful, yet a bit uneven. The staff is still working out the floor plan and the pacing, but should get more efficient with time. Although they do not take reservations, they use an efficient system that allows you to wander the casino until it is near your time to be seated.