Fleur De Lys

French with flair

Muriel Stevens

Ask über chef Hubert Keller to define what he calls "progressive French cuisine," and he'll smile. Except for the cuisine, Chef Keller's Fleur de Lys restaurant at Mandalay Bay is distinctly different from the flagship Fleur de Lys in San Francisco.


In 1986, he became the co-owner of Fleur de Lys restaurant with Maurice Rouas and took over management of the kitchens. Just as Fleur de Lys was reaching its goal, disaster struck. A devastating fire destroyed the dream.


Yet, out of this disaster, Fleur de Lys at Mandalay Bay was born. During a recent conversation with Chef Hubert, he said he would never have considered a second location. After many conversations with his business partner and wife, Chantal, the realization hit that they needed another source of income to offset any adversity the future might bring.


It was pure serendipity that a Mandalay Bay owner who was a frequent patron continued to plead his case to have a Fleur de Lys at Mandalay Bay. This timely angel made an offer that had great appeal for the Fleur de Lys owners. It would take time to rebuild the original, so Keller concentrated his efforts on Fleur de Lys at Mandalay Bay.


Construction was slow, so Keller's benefactor made another offer. Would he like to take over the already-built, but-not-yet open, hamburger cafe at Mandalay Place? From haute cuisine to burgers? Yes. The Burger Bar is as cool a burger joint as anyone could find.


The décor at Fleur de Lys is smashing. Nestled on the natural stone wall are massed pink roses encased in a dramatic wood frame. The roses are real and beautiful. Only the florist knows how this lovely feat is contrived.


Fleur de Lys carte features three-course, four-course and five-course dinners. Wine pairing is offered for an additional fee. Choose from such appetizers as chilled Maine lobster salad, roasted boneless quail breast, artisan foie gras "au torchon," "Baeckeoffe" escargots from Burgundy and more.


Among the fish, crustacean and mollusk selection are outstanding grilled diver scallops and roasted Maine lobster. Carnivores will adore the filet mignon with oxtail tortellini, braised beef ribs and a duo of veal tenderloin and braised veal cheek (a most tender enjoyment).


Executive Chef Laurent Pillard was at Fleur de Lys San Francisco before coming to Las Vegas. Chef Keller divides his time between the restaurants and Burger Bar. Teamwork makes it appear so easy. For this compatible team it is.


A Vegetarian Feast will please anyone who eschews animal protein. Of course, there's more: an excellent selection of artisan French cheeses and divine desserts. Ask your server about the selection.

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