Ortanique

A taste of the islands

Muriel Stevens

Ortanique, a tropically themed restaurant situated in Paris Las Vegas within the shopping passage that links Paris to Bally's, is a captivating eatery.


The healthy glow of filtered sun lights the dining room as if it were the real thing. Romantic and sexy, Ortanique is an eclectic fusion of different nations with the emphasis on New World Caribbean, Nuevo Latino, Carib Asian and Pan Asian.


Executive Chef Cindy Hutson and her partner, Delius Shirley, say this newer kind of Caribbean cookery has a fresh, light attitude. Hey mon, I'll settle for this kind of "tude" any day.


Dubbed "Cuisine of the Sun" by Chef Hutson, the recently introduced dinner menu is a reflection of the creativity engendered by Hutson, her executive sous chef, Eric Scott, and his sous chef, Cesar Hernandez.


Such favorites as the baked West Indian curried crab cakes made with fresh lump crab meat, blended curries and scallion, and the crispy duck rolls are keepers. Maple Leaf duck, shiitake mushrooms, Napa cabbage and hoisin sauce are accompanied by a micro green salad dressed with wasabi vinaigrette.


Zesty Szechuan marinated beef satay is tamed with ginger-cucumber salad and Thai peanut sauce. For a change of pace, have the traditional lightly dusted tender calamari with marinara sauce or a guava barbecued chicken quesadilla with black bean papaya salsa and chipotle-cilantro cream.


Prince Edward Island mussels steamed in Red Striped Beer is another taste bud titillater that shouldn't be missed.


Included in the list of entrées are a jerked double-cut pork chop with a guava-spiced rum sauce, South American Moros flamed with drunken raisins and tropical fruit. A bone-in rib eye, peppercorn-crusted filet mignon and pan-roasted Australian lamb chops may be supplemented with Key West shrimp for an additional fee. These shrimp may be added to any entrée.


Jamaica was my introduction to the exotic fishes and jerked dishes I grew to love. Add jerked Key West shrimp to the Rasta Pasta dish that includes jerked chicken. It's an authentic touch of island life.


Island seafood is fresh and flavorful. Have the Caribbean bouillabaisse, the chef's selection of fresh, seasonal seafood in a Kaffir red Thai-curried broth tempered with aromatic jasmine rice. Is it love or the passion of the chef that makes your heart throb? Whatever it is, it's delovely.


The house signature dessert, Oreo Volcano Cake, should be ordered in advance, or opt for the regular dessert menu.


Brunch/lunch is offered Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., featuring everything from eggs and smoked salmon to Caribbean tempters. Dinner service is nightly from 5:30 to 10:30. To reserve a table, call (702) 946-4346.

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