Postrio

Fine diversity

Muriel Stevens

St. Mark's Square in Venice has pigeons galore. If you feed them, you'll have to leave, so wild is their response. St. Mark's Square at The Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian has gorgeous views of the restaurants and shops?and nary a pigeon to disturb a meal.


Central to St. Mark's is Wolfgang Puck's Postrio with its spacious patio café for casual dining and an upscale dining room. This is the second Postrio for Puck. Postrio San Francisco opened in April 1989; Postrio Las Vegas opened in December 1999.


Chef-associate partner John LaGrone has created menus starring American as well as Asian and European dishes. LaGrone was raised on a farm in Northern California. He credits his mother for developing his interest in cooking at an early age. It was his mother, he said, who inspired his strong work ethic and his appreciation for the direct relationship from the earth to the table.


In 1992, LaGrone moved to Las Vegas to help open Spago under the guidance of Spago Las Vegas Chef-partner David Robins. After working at other Wolfgang Puck properties, LaGrone opened Postrio Las Vegas as the executive chef.


Postrio's café offers both lunch and dinner. I love the hearty wild mushroom soup with crème fraîche and crispy wild sage. Such starters as a trio of house-made sausages served with roasted peppers, rosemary-marinated olives and three mustards or the antipasto?shaved Italian meats, Fontina cheese, asparagus and rustic grilled bread. Either one could be a small meal for light eaters.


Wood oven-baked pizzas and pastas are available at lunch and dinner. Among the main courses at lunch are such signatures as the lobster club; mesquite-grilled Black Angus burger with portobello mushrooms and Gruyere cheese; tuna salad niçoise; rotisserie free-range chicken and Wolfgang's homey Wienerschnitzel with warm Austrian potato salad. An expanded menu that includes Peking-style roasted duck is offered at dinner. It's terrific.


Postrio's dining room features a stellar and diverse menu. Among the many specialities are fab hand-made Parmesan-potato gnocchi with Oregon chanterelles, fennel-crusted yellowfin tuna and a classic grilled prime cote de boeuf, succulent and richly flavored. Of course, there's more, including scrumptious pastries and desserts crafted by Pastry Chef Christophe Ithurritze.


Wine director and Master Sommelier Luis DeSantos is a whiz with wine pairing. Postrio hours: Postrio Cafe is open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Dining room hours: nightly, 6 to 10. The restaurant offers two private dining rooms and a separate bar. Postrio General Manager Matt Dickerson and his expert staff offer gracious, impeccable service.

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