Implosionus blastusuptis -- my way of saying a blast of the past -- will continue to change the Las Vegas Strip skyline as long as one historic hotel still stands. This is not a bad thing; it is a good thing. Las Vegas resorts and spas are world renowned and attract millions of tourists and conventioneers every year. And where else can you rub elbows with such celebs as Paris Hilton and her nightlife aficionados?
The next Strip hotel to take a powder is the Tropicana. When the Tropicana was built, it was the lone symbol of quality on the corner of Tropicana Avenue and the Strip. Today, it boggles the mind that it was once considered to be out of the mainstream; it was so far removed from the few hotels that then dotted the Strip. Known as the Tiffany of the Strip, it was glamorous and gorgeous.
And when it came to dining, the Tropicana led the way, bringing in the elegant Los Angeles restaurant Perino's. It was a bold move for everyone involved, but it was too soon for the steak-and-potato mindset of the times.
Not even the glorious dancing fountains, another first, could save it. After a series of name changes and changes in food policies, there was no hope that this divine eatery could be salvaged. The room closed.
Today, except for the four-decade lavish production show, Folies Bergere, little remains of the original Tropicana. To experience the nostalgia of the past, dine at Pietro's, an intimate Italian-Continental restaurant. Here you can find a menu and service orchestrated by Pietro Musetto, a maitre d' whose history is closely entwined with Las Vegas. At age 14, Musetto, who was born in Italy, moved to France. The beauty of the Cote d'Azur on the French Riviera captivated the eager young man. It was in France that he found his amour ... the hospitality industry at the highest level. By now, Musetto had reached a lofty stage in his career. It was through his loyal patrons that he learned about this impossibly wonderful Las Vegas in America. Guests regaled him with tales of exquisite shows and fabulous restaurants and impeccable service. "That's what attracted me to go to Las Vegas in 1964."
Game for a new adventure, the accomplished Musetto had no problem finding the right position. For many years, Musetto presided over the door at the Sultan's Table at the Dunes. After the Dunes cashed in its chips to make way for Bellagio, Musetto joined the food and beverage team at the Tropicana, working in the hotel's fine restaurants.
In 1997, a restaurant space became available. Musetto jumped at this once-in-a-lifetime chance to direct his own restaurant. And direct it he will, until the last dinner is served. What will he do when the Tropicana is imploded? "If they implode the hotel, I will implode with the hotel!
"I will take away with me many beautiful memories. I served the beautiful and the famous."
And who were some of the people who impressed him the most? "Jackie Kennedy Onassis was a very wonderful woman. Frank Sinatra and Orson Welles were wonderful people and good friends. I learned so much from a lot of good people, including the everyday people who taught me so much.
"It's a very difficult thing, running restaurants. If it's done right, it's a beautiful business."
Pietro's features tableside cooking and a classic carte. Here you will find steak Diane, chateaubriand bouquetiere, roasted rack of lamb printaniere for two, a whole Dover sole, Coquilles St. Jacques and the house pâté en croute. The dessert list includes cherries jubilee and Bananas Foster prepared tableside for two. Tiramisu, of course, and profiteroles au chocolat, tartufo and a selection of ice creams and sorbets.
I compared Pietro's prices now to prices in a 2000 article I'd written. Not much has changed. Somehow Musetto has managed to maintain the prices without sacrificing the quality.
"I was indoctrinated overseas with the importance of perfection in every area -- food, wine and service. It's the attention to details that makes the difference."
Musetto will remain at the restaurant until the closing, perhaps in April or maybe later. The hotel is still booking rooms.
Musetto and his intimate classic restaurant will be missed.