TASTE: Gracias, Amigo’s

The Fiesta’s new Mexican cantina makes for a bueno evening

Geri Jeter

Yes, another casino Mexican restaurant. This one, however, is a little different both in levels of service and quality of ingredients. Part of the ongoing transformation of the Fiesta Henderson, Amigo's Mexican Cantina occupies a quiet and pretty corner of the casino. Although its open patio design is spacious, the restaurant achieves its cozy atmosphere through an abundant use of greenery and a cleverly angled floor plan. The restaurant prizes itself on using fresh ingredients in its food and drink recipes, and there is ample evidence of this throughout.


The standard menu selections benefited the most from the choice to go fresh, raising the usual enchiladas and burrito fare to a higher level, especially those items made with the roasted and shredded chicken. Members of our party who chose the shredded-chicken burrito de la casa and the shredded-chicken enchilada were so impressed with the flavor, they made the rest of us take bites. Other hits of the evening were the chile relleno, a tender and not-too-puffy concoction, and the shrimp fajitas, cooked with crisp red peppers and accompanied by a terrific pico de gallo. The restaurant also has a quantity of shrimp dishes on the menu. The kitchen has a deft hand with the shrimp, cooking it thoroughly while keeping it tender. And side vegetables were fresh, not frozen, and well-prepared. The dinner selections also came with a crisp salad, served with the dressing on the side, leaving the dressing-to-salad proportions to the individual diner. Tortillas were a good-quality commercial product, but beans and rice were just average.


The appetizers were a mixed lot. We ordered the Beach Party Platter, a sampling of six of the menu items. This was a large portion and more than sufficient for a party of four to share. The most successful of the choices were the chicken wings. Their fiery lime marinade was spicy and flavorful. Also good was the simply prepared cheese quesadilla (just cheese and tortillas), a pleasant change from the overly sauced baroque versions seen in many local restaurants. Stripped to the basic ingredients, the high quality of the cheese shone through. The rest of the items on the plate were tasty, but there were some flaws in the execution. The green chile chicken chimitaquitos had been allowed to go a little soggy, and the Cantina Nachos, which were listed as containing grilled steak, had a decent ground-beef topping instead. Another appetizer, the guacamole, was light on the avocado and heavy on the tomatoes—the reverse would have been better.


The specialty cocktails, including a fruity and lethal Baja Sunset, were well-prepared by excellent bartenders. If margaritas are your thing, those at Amigo's are old-school. Not the tastes-like-candy limeade stuff found in most Las Vegas bars and restaurants, these—whether on-the-rocks or blended—are the real deal, made with decent tequila and a house-made mixer. Desserts were a pretty standard offering—nothing to tempt us.


The service was a major highlight of the evening. From the hostesses to the busboys, everyone was genuinely friendly. There was none of that forced, "Hi! I'm Bob and I'll be your server this evening" stuff. The waiter was extremely knowledgeable and assisted us in navigating the menu, answering questions and making useful suggestions along the way. Water glasses were kept full, and we were checked on at decent intervals. Our party felt relaxed, dinner moved at a civilized pace and no one felt rushed. It was a level of service usually found in more expensive restaurants, and it kicked the whole evening up a notch.

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