Crazy for Pita

New Middle Eastern restaurant is a dining adventure

Geri Jeter

Although most Middle Eastern restaurants feature the cooking style of the owner's home country, Zarhloul decided to mix it up a bit—Lebanese, Moroccan, Turkish, etc. The result is a mini-tour of an interesting and flavorful regional cuisine. Our party began the evening with hummus, baba ghanoush (roasted eggplant dip) and fresh commercial-quality pita bread. The hummus is in the Lebanese style—light on the tahini and garlic, lemony and whipped smooth. It's a pleasant treatment of a familiar dish. However, those who are used to a more robust hummus might find it somewhat underflavored. The excellent baba ghanoush has a roasted, slightly charred flavor with a slightly grainy texture, making it a good appetizer pairing with the hummus. Other available sides include feta salad, artichoke hearts and, for some strange reason, French fries. Also on hand is a mezza salad—a combination platter that can be either a main course for one person or an appetizer for many.

The entrée selections range from simple pita-bread sandwiches and meal-size salads to grilled skewers of beef, chicken, kefta (Middle-Eastern meatballs) and tiger shrimp, in addition to juicy rotisserie chicken. Big hits for our party were the spiced beef tenderloin and the marinated chicken skewers. Both were succulent and tender and came with Moroccan-style carrots and butternut squash (containing just a hint of cinnamon), served over saffron-scented couscous instead of rice. The dinners also were accompanied by tasty roasted cauliflower and chopped cucumber and tomato salads. For people who want to up their vegetable intake but find most vegetables dull and uninteresting, give this place a shot. It might just convert you.

Apart from the regular menu, there is a daily lunch special of roasted chicken served over vegetable couscous with feta salad, hummus and a soda for only $7.95. On Sundays, an out-of-the-ordinary dinner of honey-braised lamb, served over couscous with feta salad and hummus, is a bargain at $8.95.

The Crazy Pita places its emphasis on healthy, fresh food. There are no chemical cocktails here and no weird prepackaged concoctions. All the rubs and marinades are house-made, the vegetables are fresh and the presentations simple yet attractive. The place is scrupulously clean, and its open kitchen allows customers to see the food while it is being prepared. Although there are some simple tables and chairs, the brightly lit ambiance and plastic dishes and tableware still say "take-out place." As the restaurant becomes more established, though, the room easily could be converted into an attractive dinner house.

In addition to the dine-in and take-out options, Crazy Pita offers "Crazy Value Packs" priced from $24 to $40, and suitable for two to four people. These are terrific alternatives to other available fast-food options and a real bonus for busy neighborhood families. The restaurant also has a complete catering menu available and will accommodate special catering requests.

The Crazy Pita is located on Horizon Ridge near the Desert Willow Golf Club, overlooking the Las Vegas Valley. It is tucked away in a new, undertrafficked strip mall vaguely reminiscent of an old Twilight Zone episode (think "Nick of Time" and William Shatner), adjacent to a gourmet wine-and-cheese shop and an Italian trattoria. For diners not already living in Henderson, this may seem a bit out of the way. Think of it as an inexpensive evening or day out. Have a dining adventure—it's worth the trek.

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