In spite of our growing reputation as a dining destination, we still come up short with regard to Mexican food. LA has dozens of places that serve regional Mexican cuisine, and cities like Chicago, home of the noted Mexican chef Rick Bayless, are also far ahead of us in terms of their Mexican restaurants.
It has gotten better here in recent years. Naturally, there is good eating at low prices in places like Fausto’s, a Henderson chain, or at any taco truck you find near a construction site. Upscale dining at MGM’s Diego and Isla at the TI is creative and dependable. And now comes the new kid on the block, Cabo, part of Station Casinos’ constant, never-ending attempt to upgrade its restaurant programs.
There aren’t many surprises here, but what you do get is solid, tasty cooking done by a team of experienced chefs led by Jalisco native Raul Castro. In spite of a slightly down-market crowd here at Palace Station, not the spiffiest jewel in the Stations crown, serious money has been spent to make this restaurant competitive with the big boys.
You enter through a bar that is open to the casino floor, passing into a medium-size room decorated with gaudy cloth murals swathed in shades of red. Booths have a semicircular design and frame the restaurant’s rear wall. Tables are set spaciously apart and are furnished with designer chairs that have nice, cushy, red leather upholstery.
Mexican restaurants are generally casual, and this one is no exception. The cheerful, mostly bilingual servers are well-versed in the food. The server’s uniforms—blue jeans paired with rugged, blousy red shirts—suit the décor.
After a mojito with not enough rum (my wife says to stick to margaritas in a Mexican restaurant) and a margarita with just enough tequila, we were primed for our guacamole, prepared tableside from goodies displayed in a mise-en-place, among them diced tomato, chopped cilantro and Serrano chilies, and two ripe, whole avocados. Don, our waiter, did them proud.
But Cabo is generous with the starters, so some customers may find the dish redundant.
Three salsas are proffered: a mild, light-green tomatillo, a lusty red salsa that sings from Roma tomatoes and my favorite, a chunky, smoky chipotle that I just couldn’t stop eating. What’s more, a thick, flavorful bean dip comes along, too, as well as a basket of multicolored tortilla chips.
If you like spicy, there are Cholula chicken wings, deep-fried wings orange from a coating of Cholula sauce, Mexico’s version of Tabasco, served with a cool Ranch dressing. Use the dressing liberally; you’re going to need it.
I’ve also started meals here with chili con queso, a gooey cheese dip that ends up having an oil slick on top; delicious chicken tortilla soup; and Cabo’s good house salad, made with lots of cucumber and tortilla strips. But if there is one thing I would do again and again here, it is the posole verde, a diced-pork and hominy soup with a fragrant dash of oregano, cilantro and lime, probably the homiest item on Cabo’s menu.
One of the most popular Mexican entrees is fajitas, marinated meats served sizzling hot on cast-iron skillets, and though I’ve only had the chicken variety here, the flavors of the three components—onions, peppers and tomatoes—came through in every bite. Chef Castro puts the proverbial kitchen sink onto the side plates. Rice and beans are a given. Pico de gallo, guacamole, sour cream and warm tortillas are not, but they come along for the ride.
If it’s tacos you fancy, the beer-battered fish tacos are filling and fine, although health-conscious diners can choose to have their fish grilled instead. Spicy rock shrimp tacos are my favorite, though, tempura-battered and topped with a lime cilantro sauce and shredded cabbage. All taco entrees come with a choice of black or refried beans and Mexican rice.
I’m not a fan of chimichangas, deep-fried burritos that the Mexican navy probably uses as ballast. And the chilies rellenos, a roasted Poblano chili topped with Ranchera sauce, had a touch too much melted cheese on top.
But the especialidades, or house specials, are terrific, whether orange roughy served a la Veracruzana, topped with tomatoes, olives, chilies and capers; chile verde, tender pork stewed with tomatillos, onions and green chili; or Baja carnitas, melt-in-the-mouth braised pork that is the very essence of country-style Mexican cooking.
I’m not big on Mexican desserts, either, but naturally there is flan, Mexico’s answer to crème caramel, a solid, gelatinous version; and sopaipillas, deep-fried corn dough tossed in cinnamon and sugar, then doused with a honey dip.
Cabo may not be taking many chances on its menu, but that will come later. Given its location in Palace Station, and the reasonable prices, that’s enough of a gamble unto itself.
Cabo
Inside Palace Station. 367-2411. Dinner only, Sun.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5-11 p.m. Suggested dishes: guacamole tableside, $8.99; posole verde, $5.99; spicy rock shrimp tacos, $11.99; chile verde, $10.99.