Even in the face of tremendous growth, and with it the settling-in of chain restaurants and chain stores, Las Vegas was and still can be considered a city within a city. Nothing defines this more than the quaint mom-and-pop establishments, some of which have been open since the late '60s, that have all had a place in defining the place we live today.
So grab a phone book (or click on Mapquest) and enjoy this guide to mom-and-pop Vegas by two guys who have lived in these parts for most of their lives.
1. Moviebrat
7380 S. Eastern Ave., Suite 12 (at Warm Springs). 837-4962
Owner Miko Montgomery found his niche last summer when he opened up this colorful store, which has three essentials that every movie culture vulture feeds on: books, DVDs and posters. The variety is impressive, with films ranging from foreign (lots of Eric Rohmer titles) to classic Disney animated features; the books are everything from solid bios of classic stars (Bette Davis, Gary Cooper and the like) to introductory textbooks about screenwriting; and the posters venture out of the Star Wars and Harry Potter pop fantasies and are filled with a lot of contemporary stars. If Miko doesn't have what you're looking for on the shelf, just ask him about it—the man will find it somehow.
Hours: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; noon-6 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday.
2. Bombay Bazaar
4047 S. Maryland Parkway (at Flamingo).
435-3333
A new favorite reason to hang near the university district again. Easily the biggest Indian supermarket in the city, Bazaar has lentils, rice, breads, flour, curries and assorted spices lined up on shelves that are wide and spacious. You'll enjoy the readymade snacks in the back, like samosas (potato-stuffed pastries) and pakoras (deep-fried fritters), and if you've never had Maaza brand mango drink, now's your chance; you won't be disappointed. The real kick about Bombay Bazaar is the selection of Bollywood musicals on DVD. And better still, the big-screen television that plays the Bollywood musicals for the enjoyment of customers. A cultural shot in the arm for a city that all too often settles for gentrification.
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday.
3. Dead Poet Books
937 S. Rainbow Blvd. (at Charleston).
227-4070
We bristle when we hear people say that bookstores are getting obsolete, and that almost anything we want can be purchased on Amazon. Sure, that does remove the guesswork, but since when is that as fun as heading into a place as comprehensive as Dead Poet's Books, plopping yourself on a plush couch, and rediscovery the joys of classic literature—we like Fitzgerald and Faulkner, or someone more modern, like Hanif Kureishi. For 16 years (the last three in this location), Linda and Rich Piediscalzi have been running Dead Poets for all the bookworms in the Valley. They appreciate return customers, and it's not uncommon to browse for hours without interruption here. Collectors might want to check out some of the old sheet music, comic books and vintage records. Thank God the place doesn't have a cafe or we'd never leave.
Hours: 10 a.m.-6 p.m. daily.
4. Kool Kollectables
953 E. Sahara Ave. (one block west of Maryland).
877-5665
This store is huge, stocked with goodies that would delight the heart of any closet nerd: comics, vintage and new; Star Trek T-shirts; photo stills of third-rate Hollywood stars (Gary Merrill and Cleo Moore); and groovy Star Wars props.
There's also an excellent selection of anime (Soleil Moon, Akira and more), and those old standby DC comics (Superman, Batman) are stacked damn near to the ceiling here. Kollectables also has a knockout collection of sports memorabilia: baseball, basketball and hockey are available in all kinds of forms—cards, T-shirts, celebrity fanzines.
Final selling point: Comedian and comic-book supernerd Patton Oswald has been known to stop by this place when he's in town.
Hours: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 11 a.m. - 8 p.m. Sunday.
5. Champagnes Café
3557 S. Maryland Parkway.
737-1699
With its classic décor of yesteryear, gold-flecked wallpaper, shot-glass lights, wall of cigarette smoke, leather couches, cheap beer and quirky denizens, Champagnes Café comes is one the most delightfully eccentric bars you'll ever come across. The limited jukebox selection doesn't exactly have people dancing with abandon, but the owners make up for it with a roomy karaoke stage. Plus, the vibe in this place is so strangely and terrifically welcoming that you'll be a regular in no time. Besides, who can resist knockout Bloody Marys for a $1.50?
6. Decatur Liquor
546 S. Decatur Blvd.
870-2522
Noted for years for its free hot dogs and chili special on Friday afternoon, Decatur is also a fine bar that makes strong, large gin and tonics made with—get this—good gin! It's oddly idyllic, located next to the Huntridge drugstore, with eerie, filtered natural light and excellent corner-liquor-store selections and, most interestingly, a slew of East Coasters counting the minutes away until dawn. Established in 1963, this joint beats the bland anonymity of so many other (newer) neighborhood taverns.
7. Huntridge Tavern
1122 E. Charleston Blvd. (at Maryland Parkway).
384-7377
Minimalism is a kick in this 51-year-old bar. A serpentine lowered ceiling, little décor, dim lighting and no contrived "happy hour" define the very essence of this Downtown dive. Still, it manages to pack in the jaded preachers, struggling musicians, untalented poets and "will work for food" types for drinks, served quickly and inexpensively—a low-key atmosphere in the best "let's tie one on and unpack our troubles" sense. Also, give a nod to a bartender who can make a perfect Bronx with bitters when instructed—truly, one of the last of its kind.
8. The Exotic Pet Store
2105 N. Decatur Blvd. (at Lake Mead).
631-7387
With the city's largest selection of reptiles, amphibians and other exotic pets, this store is filled with spiders, turtles, iguanas, snakes and all kinds of birds that require pretty low maintenance. We were once informed by a sales rep that it can cost as little as $10 a month to provide for a 2-foot garden snake! Plus, you can purchase books, food supplies and cages for your unusual new pet. It's not as dangerous as it sounds; the sign on their store window offers 100 percent "health" guaranteed. It's a must for those with even the slightest taste for the bizarre.
Hours: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday; noon - 5 p.m. Sunday.
9. Flomar Bakery & Corner Deli
1083 E. Tropicana Ave. (at Maryland).
736-4306
Thirty years on, owner Jorge Martinez is still knocking out delicious pastries with an unerring consistency that would make a perpetual motion machine proud. Just check this list of the goods that sit in the trays begging for consumption: cookies, Cubana gelletas, Tres, bagels, turnovers—and the cakes! The amaretto, chocolate kahlua and coconut cream cakes are all wonders of human achievement. Good sandwiches, too, with the traditional Cubano being the best
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 2 p.m.-5 p.m. Sunday.
10. British Foods Inc.
3375 S. Decatur Blvd. No. 11 (south of Desert Inn).
579-7777
For more than a decade, British Foods has largely been the only game in town if you want pies, bangers, kippers and (ugh!) salad cream. Although, if you're like everyone else we know, you really head there for the McVitie's digestive biscuits and the best variety of Cadbury chocolates—and we mean variety: fruit and nut, whole nut, flake, crunchy, snaps, double-decker; you get the idea. Also, for the anglophile in you, it has Union Jack products such as towels, aprons and more.
Hours: 10 a.m.-6 p.m. daily.
11. Chicago Hot Dogs
1078 N. Rancho Drive (at Washington)
647-3647
We don't know what it is about this place. It could hardly look simpler, with the plain wallpaper and obligatory sports memorabilia. Fortunately, the hot dogs, burgers and sandwiches are all first-rate. Check out the quarter-pound Jordan Dog, a very spicy dog indeed. The Italian Beef Sandwich is loaded with what feels like a pound of roast beef, plus sweet peppers on hot Gonnella bread—hey, it's popular for a reason. But members of the cashless society beware: This place only takes greenbacks, so leave the debit card at home.
Hours: 11 a.m.–8 p.m. daily
12. Mrs. Williams Diabetic Delights
3466 S. Decatur Blvd. (at Spring Mountain)
362-1243
Candies, cookies, cheesecakes, pies, muffins, syrups, cake mixes and ice cream—that list only scratches the surface of this incredible variety of sugar-free products. Remember that it costs considerably more to make fine and tasty sugar-free sweets than regular candies. A pound of Williams' diabetic delights will cost you in the neighborhood of $10, but there are some prepackaged and selected gift items that are cheaper. They have loads of samples you can try; taste the English toffee or raspberry delights. There's even a list that will thoroughly break down all the products into carbohydrates, calories, fat protein and cholesterol.
Hours: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday.
13. Davey's Locker
1149 E. Desert Inn Road.
735-0001
You really have to look for this neighborhood bar—it's crammed in between some makeshift apartments (the kind you always see on your daily newscast as backdrop for a drug bust). With its unmistakable neon fish marquee greeting every lush in the Valley for nearly 40 years, this joint shows great tolerance for your company—you could hang out here for a week, and as long as you're buying something, you'll be okay to stay. This is easily one of the coolest joints in the city, even if their Manhattans are lacking some sweet vermouth.