It’s a crowded Saturday night at Estiatorio Milos at the Cosmopolitan, and amid the breezy Grecian decor highlighted by clay amphorae lining the walls, customers line up at the restaurant’s fish display to choose the evening’s fare. There’s the New Zealand St. Pierre, its spiny fins belied by delicate white filets; the hulking Canadian lobster, languidly waving its claws in the packed ice; or perhaps the Portuguese balada, a rare, coral-hued bream whose sweet, tender flesh makes it one of the eatery’s most popular offerings.
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