The corner of Maryland Parkway and Silverado Ranch has seen a spate of restaurant openings in the past year, including Nutmeg Indian American Cuisine, Doh Korean BBQ and hand-pulled noodle palace Shang Mian. One spot that’s been there for seven years is worth revisiting, the Filipino restaurant Full House BBQ.
Owner and executive chef Alexander Irlandes, who previously served as corporate executive chef for the Golden Nugget brand, brings a modernist take on Southeast Asian fare. Where most Filipino restaurants in town utilize the turo-turo format—a cafeteria-style presentation of dishes—Full House BBQ is a sit-down affair, with a menu featuring typical northern Philippine-style dishes, along with not-so-typical fusion offerings.
Among appetizers, you’ll find the signature Lumpiang Shanghai ($6) and pork and shrimp shumai in chili oil ($6). There’s also decidedly non-Filipino truffle fries ($4.75), but it’s served with banana ketchup, so we’ll call it a draw. Fried delicacies are a beloved part of the cuisine, and the crispy lechon pork belly ($11) doesn’t disappoint. You’ll be licking every last bit of grease from your fingers.
In the Noble Classics section, the more exotic dishes shine, including Kare-Kare ($16), braised oxtail with creamy peanut sauce, and, for the not faint of heart, Crispy Pork Belly Dinuguan ($13), with a beef blood orange sauce sure to revive the iron-deficient.
The adobo ($12) comes in either pork or chicken, and while it’s considered the national dish, there are as many ways to cook it as there are islands in the Philippines. You won’t find a consensus as to how it’s best prepared (only that mom’s version is the tastiest), so order without expectations.
There’s a section on the menu you won’t find in other Filipino restaurants: burgers. To pair a protein with anything other than rice is downright scandalous, but give these massive sandwiches a try. The Oxtail Burger ($11) is a juicy, meaty treat—a very Filipino flavor in an American home. Paired with garlic truffle fries, it’s the world on a plate.
FULL HOUSE BBQ 9890 S. Maryland Parkway #D19, 702-227-4663. Thursday-Tuesday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
