Opening a restaurant with marquee names brings enormous expectations, but the fourth U.S. location of chefs Michael Mina and Ayesha Curry’s International Smoke lives up to the hype.
The predominant element here is meat—specifically, smoked meat—but there’s plenty of seafood, too. It’s surf-and-turf with an international flair, an homage to the chefs’ global family customs and cooking techniques. The flavors are layered and bold, at times unfamiliar, but they always land on the palate with newfound delight.
Every meal at the MGM Grand spot should begin with Ayesha’s Fresh Baked Cornbread ($3), spiced with curry and frosted with Thai red curry butter. Pair that with the Whole Cauliflower ($16)—a roasted and smoked behemoth with a sake-mirin glaze and toasted sesame seeds, sprinkled with togarashi and garnished with raisins and pomegranate seeds. While the size is massive, remember that everything here is meant to be shared family-style. Don’t skip the crab & Thai coconut soup ($15), a concoction of tofu, cilantro, fried shallots and chunks of crab. After a few bites the spice kicks in, so keep the sweet cornbread on hand to temper the heat.
There are six entrées from which to choose, each so intriguing that you’ll be momentarily stumped. The whole Mediterranean branzino ($39) comes with lemon potatoes, rainbow Swiss chard and a tomato vinaigrette. Our server, Will, recommended the braised Jamaican oxtail ($38). Served with red beans, white rice, Scotch bonnet and roasted carrots, it’s a dish so rich and complex in flavor you’ll be thinking about it long after the last morsel of meat falls off the bone. That goes for the smoker offerings, too: The ribs ($22-$55), which come in American, Vietnamese and Korean flavor profiles, are well-seasoned and perfectly tender, never tipping into mushy-meat territory. And the sides also deserve center-stage billing, particularly the rib tip mac and cheese ($16) and crab fried rice ($17).
A meal so savory should end on a sweet note. Opt for the Palette of Pudding Trio ($14), with crème brûlee, chocolate custard and butterscotch pudding. Like everything else, it’s perfect for sharing.
INTERNATIONAL SMOKE MGM Grand, 702-891-3922. Daily, 5-10 p.m.
