HaSalon, the recently opened restaurant by Israeli celeb chef Eyal Shani, is a space that invokes big feelings.

Shani is often referred to as the father of modern Israeli cooking. HaSalon opened in Tel Aviv in 2008 and has grown into a global phenomenon with locations in Ibiza, New York and Miami. He owns 40 restaurants worldwide, including the more casual fare of Miznon, which debuted at Palazzo a few months ago.

He is known to be obsessive (especially with tomatoes…more on that later) and effusive with his relationship to food, declaring, “At HaSalon you are getting the best feeling that life can give, the magic from a night you are praying will never end, experiencing a loss of control and the freedom that feeling has.”

This space, formerly occupied by David Chang’s Majordomo, has a modern industrial feel, the perfect setting for what transpires later in the evening when HaSalon is transformed into a clubstaurant, where there might be dancing on tables by staff or patrons (at their own risk). But come at the 6 p.m. hour (considered the first seating), and the vibe is genteel and warm, with soft classical music piping on the speakers.

The magic begins when your server hands you a printed copy of a menu written entirely in Comic Sans font, which he or she will mark up with a ballpoint pen, circling personal favorites and shouldn’t-miss spectacles. Take that with a grain of salt, for you are implored to “live by your own destiny. Here you will have to take a chance.”

The menu descriptions are dramatic, and you will undoubtedly have a chuckle, but if you sit at the counter that overlooks the open kitchen, you will see how seriously the chefs take their culinary artistry. On this particular evening, Shani himself presided over the affair, peeling tomatoes with such care that you are so mesmerized by the show, you forget you’re here to eat. (Later, he would open a tin of anchovies and pop one in his mouth, nodding approvingly, right before expertly slicing into a massive bluefin tuna for tartare.)

HaSalon focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients with a Mediterranean bent, so start with the “vegetable creatures,” which exemplify this ethos. The charred beetroot carpaccio ($21), served with crème fraîcheand “covered with horseradish snow,” is a scarlet delicacy you can’t get enough of as you peel off every last bit from the gold cardboard upon which it’s served. Avocado Diamonds ($22), topped with salt and “resting peacefully on a bruschetta,” might be the creamiest chunks of avocado you’ll every try. Move on to the pasta section and order the 7 Ricotta Clouds, Not Even One More ($43), and you’ll feel like you’ve gone to heaven.

The rest of the menu is divided into “wild fish & other creatures from the deep sea” and “cow & lamb - grass fed.” My companion and I were intrigued by One Perfect Scallop ($42) but opted for a pan of clams “that flow into naked tomato sauce and zhug” ($39) and the striped bass hraime ($58), which is “a story of a fish in stormy spicy tomatoes.”

Tomatoes clearly hold a special place in Shani’s heart and repertoire; his Instagram handle is @eyaltomato, so that says a lot. Indeed, the chef is gifted with his handling of the vegetable—or is it a fruit? Doesn’t matter; in Shani’s hands, it’s transformed and transformative, presented in iterations that invigorate and pucker the palate.

As the evening progressed and the music got louder, another sound joined the mix—that of a hammer, from the dish called Terrifying Hammer ($46), a beef carpaccio prepared tableside and finished with lemon and grated Parmesan cheese. Less terrifying and more a crowd pleaser, we vowed to come back and get it next time. We might even find ourselves dancing on the table.

HASALON Palazzo, 702-607-3065, venetianlasvegas.com. Thursday-Saturday, 6 p.m.-midnight.

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