Four Queens

Love Downtown!

You’re hungry? You’re thirsty? You’re broke?

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Photo: Jeff Speer

Gas is approaching $4 a gallon. Food prices are escalating. We’re all feeling the pinch, to one degree or another, and occasionally would like a bit of a break. Hey, we live in a tourist town designed for escapism—we should take advantage of it. But maybe we don’t feel up for a night in the clubs. And sometimes the local casinos and chain restaurants feel a bit too blasé.

That’s when Downtown comes to mind—the perfect blend of gritty and revamped; the perfect place to hunt for a good dining deal.

Lighting and street improvements and the opening of smart venues like the Triple George on North Third Street have followed the construction of new high-rise properties. In late August 2007, the city of Las Vegas completed a $5.5 million streetscape effort adjacent to the new Streamline Towers condominiums at 150 Las Vegas Blvd. N. that has made the short trip from the base of the Fremont Street Experience to the El Cortez a brighter, but still authentic, Vegas journey.

While new owners are improving long-neglected properties, the closure of some low-/mid-roller favorites like the Stardust and the New Frontier on the north Strip have increased the number of suburbanites or tourists willing to give Downtown a second look. In the process, Downtown restaurants are reaping the benefits. And that’s good for everybody: good food at every price and quality range. Granted, you can still find potential salmonella farms and the cheap and nasty buffets of movie lore (“I’ll have some of the yellow. And don’t get cheap on me”), but there are also tremendous bargains.

The deals begin with the most basic casino comp—the free player drinks. Overall, the Downtown casinos use decent bar brands and pour them on the strong side. Some casino cocktail servers, like those at the recently renovated Four Queens (202 Fremont St.), even encourage guests to request a favorite brand. At the Main Street Station Casino (200 N. Main St.), the Triple 7 Brewery craft beers are available to players upon request.

Love Downtown

Downtown is also where you can find the remains of the Great Las Vegas Snack Bar Culture. Two of the best are under the Fremont Street canopy—Binion’s and the Golden Gate.

Terry Caudill, who just spent $20 million spiffing up and desmokifying the Four Queens, recently purchased Binion’s (128 E. Fremont St.). So far, the snack bar remains. Known for its freshly made hamburgers, the snack bar also dishes up the Bean of the Day, an amazing ham and bean soup loaded with chunks of ham and the bean variety of the day, along with a side of cornbread. It comes in a Styrofoam cup, but hey—it’s a heck of a meal for $3.50.

For those not into meat, the San Francisco Shrimp Bar & Deli at the Golden Gate (1 Fremont St.) offers a tasty and generous bargain shrimp cocktail, which the casino first brought to Las Vegas in 1959, beginning a Las Vegas tradition. The generous portion of bay shrimp is served in a classic fluted sundae glass, topped with a spicy cocktailsauce; saltine crackers and a lemon wedge are served on the side. At $1.99, it can’t be beat. The deli menu also features hot dogs, soup and sandwiches, all at decent prices.

From the antique-riddled Main Street Station to the party-hearty Hennessey’s Tavern (425 Fremont St.) at the opposite end of the canopy, the happy hour is alive and kicking Downtown. At Main Street Station’s Triple 7, a selection of appetizers are available for $4.25, including quesadillas, California rolls and chicken wings. Drink specials, though, are the real bargain here: $1 for a large glass of house wine, $1.50 for mixed drinks and only $2 for a 16-ounce craft beer. While the food offerings are decent enough, the beer is outstanding. Try the High Roller Gold and the seasonal, über-coffee-infused Java Imperial Porter. The pub is pleasant and the setting terrific; however, in two day-long visits, Main Street Station was the only Downtown location where our group experienced unfriendly service. You might have better luck.

At Fitzgerald’s (301 Fremont St.), check out the second-floor Vue Bar. There you can sit on the funny little balcony under the Fremont Street canopy and enjoy the two-for-one drinks and appetizers while watching the world go by below you during the day and the show in the sky at night. Two orders of their loaded nachos ($6.95) and a few beers make for a cheap and cheerful dinner for four.

At the end of the Fremont Street canopy, you will find not only Hennessey’s Tavern but also Mickie Finnz Fish House and Bar (shaped like a giant pint of beer), a branch of a small Huntington Beach chain. Take advantage of the happy hour half-off specialty drinks, the two-for-one taco platters and burgers at Two Timin’ Tuesdays, the daily $10 Sunset Dinner deals or the two-for-one turkey dinner on Sunday after 5 p.m.

Is it time for the tablecloths and cocktail lounges, but your budget doesn’t stretch to N9NE or Morton’s?

A little walk beyond the canopy leads to one of the oldest dining rooms in town—Roberta’s at the El Cortez (601 E. Fremont St.), an old-school ’50s-style dining room with a simple menu, crisp white tablecloths and a charming and attentive staff. Granted, if you’re under 40, you will be the youngest person in the room, but don’t let that stop you. The food is great, especially the tasty 20-ounce Porterhouse steak. This giant hunk of protein comes with a large baked potato for only $20.95; salads and desserts are huge, and you are encouraged to share. Don’t miss the huge strawberry shortcake, in which fresh strawberries and freshly whipped cream are layered among delicate house-made cake.

Those with a slightly adventurous palate might want to give the Second Street Grill at the Fremont (200 E. Fremont St.) a try. Casually elegant, with comfy chairs and elegant wood paneling, the restaurant has a menu that goes the distance from basic steak to Pacific Rim-inspired seafood. Not too terribly expensive at around $25 for dinner, especially considering that the same type of entrée would set you back at least $35-$40 on the Strip.

For a special treat, and at the top end of the “ain’t we chic” scale, is the Triple George restaurant (201 N. Third St.) and its adjoining lounge, the Sidebar. Homesick Bay Area transplants will recognize the interior—a faithful replica of the famed Tadich Grill in San Francisco. Although you won’t find those delicate, pan-fried sand dabs of memory, you will find delicious gourmet comfort food, including bacon-wrapped meatloaf and chicken pot pie, each under $15. Although steaks are in the $25-$35 range at dinner, like at a lot of Downtown gourmet rooms, the entrées come with their appropriate accompaniments.

The real steal at Triple George, though, is the lunch menu. There is a good selection of under-$10 meals, including a yummy pot roast at $9.95 and a roast turkey wrap at $8.95. Many items from the dinner menu also are scaled down in size and price for lunchtime palates and slimmer wallets.

While there, be sure to look in on the Sidebar lounge next door. The inviting sleek and modern room serves up some fine hand-muddled, top-shelf drinks. Each day one variety is selected as the $5 daily martini special. They get to choose, and you get to save.

And if none of the above tickles your palate, you can always try the Binion’s Ranch Steakhouse house specialty, the chicken fried lobster. It’s $49.95, but where else will you find it?

Geri Jeter is a frequent Weekly contributer
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