What is it about Tuber magnatum, the white truffle of northern Italy's Alba, in Piedmont province, that elevates its price to four times that of pure gold, drives pigs and dogs into near frenzy, and causes gastronomes the world over to swoon with joy?
Unlike French black truffles, a white truffle (tartufo in Italian) is never cooked. Instead, white truffles are eaten shaved in flurries, usually atop cooked pasta, risotto, soft scrambled eggs or toasted country bread. Its pungent, garlic and cheese aroma constitutes one of the world's great taste sensations. Go figure.
In France, pigs dig for them; the chemical compound androsterone that the truffles exude is a sexual stimulant. Italians use dogs, because they are mainly just hungry, and they hunt for truffles at night to keep the locales secret. Usually, they grow near oak or linden trees. In Alba, the town most closely associated with the best white truffles, peak season is now. Hungry yet?
Good, because these gems will be available at Piero Selvaggio Valentino and Wolfgang Puck's Postrio in limited quantities this week and next, and perhaps longer, depending on how long the season lasts. If your credit cards aren't maxed out, do try them. But be warned, prices are usually through the roof.
Now, the real reason I'm bringing all this up. Last Sunday, Signore Selvaggio hosted the fifth annual Asta Mondiale Del Tartufo, a truffle auction conducted at his restaurant via satellite hookup with Alba and New York, on a pair of giant TV screens.
In those cities, and here in Vegas, enthusiastic bidders were vying for 21 white truffles of considerable size, the smallest weighing in at 109 grams (around 3 1/2 ounces), and the largest at 500 grams (just over 1 pound).
In Vegas, the auctioneer turned out to be Robin Leach, the lifestyles guru who makes microphones obsolete. Proceeds from the sale went to various charities, including Vegas' Alzheimer's charity, Keep Memory Alive, and the Dr. Miriam and Sheldon G. Adelson Clinic for Drug Abuse Treatment & Research.
Lest all this strike you, O exalted alternative weekly reader, as elitist, we need to talk. Buy Mr. Leach's argument—that having this event in Vegas puts us on the world culinary map—and it's good news for all of us. Leach was ecstatic to have a crack at these truffles before Los Angeles. I hate to admit it, but me, too.
The event was a mild anticlimax, partly because of its length, and mainly because Italians will be, well Italians, proceeding at an entirely different pace than we impatient Americans. (The "slow food" phenomenon is, after all, an Italian invention.)
Various truffles were displayed and bid for in all three locations. The truffles at Valentino sat on purple velvet plinths, surrounded by bejeweled necklaces (not included in the final selling prices.) Those bought in Italy by Vegas chefs were to be transported here by Puck himself, by air from Milan within 48 hours.
Leach, owner Selvaggio, who translated, and chef Luciano Pellegrini were flanked by a pair of beautiful showgirls and two surprisingly lifelike wax figures of Luciano Pavarotti and Wolfgang Puck.
The real Puck was in Alba, visible on camera, to bid for the truffles displayed there. Here in the gallery were around 100 locals, present both to bid and for a white truffle menu prepared by chefs David Robins of Spago, (who bought two of the truffles himself), Alex Stratta of Renoir, and Pellegrini, following the auction.
During the bidding, stuzzichini (Italian snacks) were passed: polenta squares with a robiola cheese mousse and white truffle shavings, zucchini flowers stuffed with rabbit mousse and topped with white truffle shavings, and a mangia-beve, a new trend that combines a drink with something to eat. (The cocktail, from master mixologist and Weekly columnist Francesco Lafranconi, had a hazelnut liqueur, limoncello, and a baby pear filled with Parmesan cheese, pomegranate seeds and currants.)
The actual price the truffles fetched was, in the end, a bit of a shock. The first had a base price of 750 Euros, around $800, but sold for four times that. The two largest, after spirited bidding, were bought by Selvaggio and Puck themselves, for $26,000 and $30,000 respectively. That kind of scratch will buy a lot of mushroom omelets.
The lunch itself was one of the culinary highlights of the year, with each dish using the white truffles' perfume to intoxicating effect. Robins did a veal carpaccio with Gorgonzola cheese, while Stratta prepared a classic risotto.
Pellegrini served a seared buffalo medallion with a potato and artisanal cheese Napoleon. Pastry chef Alessandro Stoppa finished us off with a Grand Marnier mousse flanked by candied tomatoes and chestnuts. Just for the record, white truffles are amazing this year, thanks to low water content; earthy, intense flavors; and an appealingly grainy texture.
Next week in this column, it is back to the grind.