The Gourmet Steak

Innovative fare tickles palate

Muriel Stevens

New York chef/restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten broke new ground when he created Prime Steakhouse at Bellagio. This most elegant steakhouse is beautifully situated on the lakeside level and offers views of the dancing fountains and smashing chocolate brown and light blue décor. The handsome art that adorns the walls includes three commissioned paintings by Carlo Maria Mariani, George Deem and Michael Gregory, and a stunning five-paneled water-themed canvas screen by Joseph Raffael.


Plush velvet draping, powder blue marble floors and Baccarat crystal chandeliers are vivid reminders that Prime is more than a steakhouse, it's an experience. The posh surroundings are warm, inviting and yes ... romantic.


Designed by Michael DeSantis, the modish dining room is adjoined by a garden patio. I love the handsome bar at the entrance. The bar stools are gorgeous, the bartenders expert and the libations -- pure liquid pleasure.


At Prime Steakhouse, you will find some of the best quality meats and seafood. The selection may look like your typical steakhouse offerings, but there's nothing typical about Prime.


Executive Chef Jonathan Snyder has designed a menu that is both traditional and trendy. Among the appetizers are soy-cured salmon with Asian pear and crème fraîche and a chilled shellfish platter. I'm fond of the chilled oysters accompanied by an original grains of paradise mignonette that is a perfect foil for the plump, briny bivalve mollusks. A steak tartar and carpaccio combination is another fine pairing.


Foie gras ravioli with passion fruit and spiced red wine is another felicitous combinations and so is the crab spring roll with a sweet and tart tamarind dipping sauce. Such lovely flavors. The two soups offered are outstanding: butternut squash with black trumpet mushrooms and a zesty cream of tomato with basil and cheddar.


Prime's chopped salad vies with a classic caesar salad. The steamed shrimp salad with avocado, mushrooms and tomato is enhanced with a delicate champagne vinaigrette, or consider the arugula, preserved lemon and artichoke salad -- fusion of the first order.


Prime's meat selection includes rack of lamb with a golden red- pepper crust and a veal porterhouse served with caramelized cauliflower and kumquat-pineapple chutney. Homespun braised short ribs are cooked with mushrooms, pearl onions and bacon.


Of course, steak is king. Prime's selection includes roasted ribeye (28- or 18-ounce), filet mignon (12- or 18-ounce), aged New York steak (my personal favorite) and a porterhouse.


I particularly enjoy the sauce and mustard service at Prime. Small crocks of Bernaise sauce, soy rice wine, peppercorn sauce, Prime steak sauce and homemade ketchup give the diner many flavorful options. Mustards offered are horseradish, herbes de Provence, whole grain, Dijon, green peppercorn and lovely violet mustard.


It was at Prime that I first tasted the aromatic violet mustard. It is now a staple in my pantry.


Dover sole (the real McCoy) is another personal favorite. Slow-baked sea bass, seared tuna au poivre, pistachio-crusted salmon and live Maine lobster (market price) are featured among the fish selection.


Roasted chicken served with haricot vert and a chili-onion compote and tamarind-glazed duck are excellent poultry choices.


Sauces for the fish selections are mustard, ginger-soy and beurre blanc.


Prime's potato and vegetable list is endless. Ginger sweet potatoes, roasted fingerlings, plain and truffled mashed potatoes, gratin Dauphinois, tempura potatoes with lemon, baked potato and the chick pea fries that I can never resist are offered. The chick pea fries are stacked on the plate in layers and are meant to be shared.


Vegetarians can have a field day at Prime. The vegetable selection includes creamed spinach, citrus-glazed baby carrots, crisp onion rings, roasted beets, broccolini and more.

  • Get More Stories from Sun, Apr 9, 2006
Top of Story