Mon Ami Gabi

French passion

Muriel Stevens

Mon Ami Gabi opened at Paris Las Vegas on Sept. 1, 1999, and the response to this traditional French steakhouse and seafood restaurant was tremendous from the start.


"Within seconds, there was a wait for a table," said Perry Fuselier, then general manager of the restaurant.


Mon Ami Gabi is owned by the Chicago-based Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises group. LEYE associate partner Fuselier recently reminisced about the opening. "It was amazing. From the minute we opened the doors, we were swamped.


"It usually takes a few months for a restaurant to develop a following. Ours was instantaneous. We probably have a larger local following than most Strip restaurants. Access to the restaurant is easy, making Mon Ami Gabi a hot local spot."


One of the most requested places to dine is the outdoor patio. Reservations are not accepted for this charming sidewalk café where you can watch all Las Vegas pass by. The patio has been expanded from its original 18 tables to more than 40.


In addition to lunch and dinner, Mon Ami Gabi features Saturday and Sunday brunch with a champagne cart and a build-your-own Bloody Mary bar. Available at lunch are hot and cold appetizers -- trout Grenobloise, mussels and frites, skate (a personal favorite) and mac and cheese a la Française with ham. Burgers, sandwiches, savory crêpes and quiche, a selection of meal-size salads and steak frites whet the appetite.


The dinner carte features an extended selection of French bistro foods. A hearty country-style pâté is served with cornichons, whole grain mustard and country toast. The bread is, of course, crusty and satisfying. Have the turkey rillettes served in a pot with country bread, radishes and salt ... soooo very French.


Hanger steak a la Mon Ami is a butcher's cut that I can't resist. Prime New York with a bleu cheese sauce is just one of the many steaks. Each steak has its own sauce or flavored butter and a generous mountain of frites. Mon Ami's kitchen offers a terrific grand-mère's-style roast chicken, frites and pearl onions, mushrooms and bacon. Aromas that warm the heart emanate from the dish heralding its arrival.


Dessert crêpes, profiteroles, Tarte Tatin and classic crème brûlée are highlights of the dessert selection. I know, I know, you're counting carbs or calories, not desserts. So have some fresh fruit and sorbet, and you can depart with your tummy tucked in, head high and no guilt.

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