Bam!

Steakhouse kicks it up a notch with Creole influence

Muriel Stevens

How does Emeril do it? How does this whirlwind superchef-proprietor of nine restaurants, author of numerous best-selling cookbooks and Food Network darling do it all?


He's a devoted son to his mother, Hilda, who first taught him to cook. As a husband and father, he shines. Most of his travels include his lovely wife, Alden, and his toddling tots. The man is awesome.


At a recent fundraiser, did I tell you that he's a most philanthropic man? Mr. Lagasse and pals Wolfgang Puck and Nobu Matsuhisa took time out from cooking dinner for more than 900 to donate a feast the trio would create for a generous bidder. In less than a minute, they raised more than $1,000,000 from four lucky bidders.


Emeril prepared the entrée?succulent braised short ribs drizzled with a zesty horseradish sauce, but you won't find it on the menu at Emeril's Delmonico Steakhouse in The Venetian. Delmonico's menu changes seasonally, making it a possibility that the short ribs will return. Not to worry.


Delmonico is an all-American steakhouse with Creole influences. All of the beef selections are USDA Prime aged meats and are hand-cut. All good things.


Delmonico Steakhouse is where the power brokers come for lunch. If the gumbo of the day is French onion soup, lucky you?the thick, cheesy soup is topped with a homemade English muffin and Swiss cheese. Delmonico cures its own tasso ham and pairs it with hickory-smoked mushrooms over angel hair pasta.


Chef de Cuisine Dana D'Anzi is an excellent chef and the only female exec on the Strip. I like her style and the multi-faceted dishes she creates. Foie gras is one of her specialities. Each day she creates a new goose liver tempter.


Emeril's restaurants have always been known for their homespun delectable desserts. Irish whiskey crème brûlée, apple-and-cheddar-cheese bread pudding, coconut and chocolate cream pie and bananas Foster ice cream are among the many signature desserts.


During a recent conversation with Emeril, we talked about the aftermath of Katrina. "Muriel, it was a horrifying experience. I wasn't there when it happened, but my people had plenty of stories to tell.


"The restaurants were a mess, but my staff and managers were on the scene as soon as they could solve their own problems. And they had plenty. I flew down as soon as I could get there. It was an agonizing experience."


I'm happy to tell you that Emeril's home base offices are up and running and the restaurants are well on their way.

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