It may have been the first time in my life I ever spit vodka out of my mouth, but I suppose the point needed to be made, despite the sin. Not too long ago I was sitting at I Bar with pal and master mixologist Bobby “G” Gleason of Future Brands (the intoxicant aficionados who manage everything from Absolut to Jim Beam). The subject of vodka came up, and Gleason asked me what I knew. Feeling well-educated on the subject, I made the carefully considered remark, “I like to drink it.” Gleason smiled tolerantly. Like most local club rats, I was of the Grey Goose following. Never really sure why—perhaps it was just the monosyllabic ease, “Goose and [blank], please.”
When Gleason presented two cordial glasses, I thought we were doing shots; it turned out I was about to do a blind tasting. Later I discovered one was Level Vodka, the premium older brother of Absolut. The other was Goose.
“Which is better?” Gleason quizzed. After swishing around each of the spirits like mouthwash, I was instructed to spit them both out, which I did reluctantly. One burned my mouth like I’d been eating jalapeños with chapped lips; the other I could have gargled with (which I have, in fact, been known to do).
Unknowingly, I had chosen Level, shocked that my beloved Goose had been dethroned. I needed more proof. Last Tuesday, I ventured into the belly of the beast, the Absolut Flavors Suite at Caesars Palace for the Beyond Smooth Level Vodka Cocktail Competition. Holy vodka heaven, Batman! The two-level, 1,880-square-foot suite on the 13th floor of the Roman Tower has six rooms, each themed after a flavor of Absolut Vodka. It is like Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory for a boozer.
Esquire magazine, along with the hotel and Absolut, put together what was supposed to be a one-off promotion a year or so back, and it ended up turning into a permanent party pad that is also available to the public. The entrance is themed after Absolut Mandrin, and the first bar is just three feet from the door. Nice! The main and largest room is Absolut Raspberri, a bi-level lounge connected by a curving staircase, garnished with plush purple ottomans and a reflective black dance floor. The floor-to-ceiling window overlooks the Strip, but can be shaded to provide a massive big-screen capable of the coolest game of Mario Kart imaginable.
On the second floor, Absolut Apeach is painted like a pool deck with an in-room Jacuzzi, and—to help the motion of the ocean—the bed is a two-person life raft. Down the hall, Absolut Citron might be a little bright for a hangover, but it beams with lemon-drop lamps and walls adorned with surfboards. Downstairs, the Nordic-inspired Absolut Vanilia room has a rocking chair and a bed made in the image of an ivory sleigh. Lastly, Absolut Ruby Red has a giant window that can be covered with a scrim of the Riviera, and the bed is fit for a wobbly king.
I want to live here forever, but I digress.
When carousing becomes competitive, nobody can really lose, and this cocktail tournament made sure everybody got a taste of the action, literally. Special thanks to Liz Edwards of the United States Bartenders Guild and James Oliver Jr. of Absolut for organizing the event, and of course Gleason, who hosted the entire night.
The only solid rules were a) the cocktail must be made in less than seven minutes; and b) it must include Level vodka. Patricia Richards, lead bartender at Wynn, took home first prize with her English Garden—a blend of Level, Plymouth Gin, sweet and sour, fresh cucumber juice and Sonoma Co. lavender-infused simple syrup. However, there would be no gloating by any of the winners.
Armando Rosario, from Southern Wine, who took second place, and Darren West of Petrossian Bar in Bellagio, who won third and best garnish, were making drinks for everyone as soon as they were done competing. Every drink was impeccable, and my devotion to the uniquely distilled spirit was complete—or absolute if you wish.
Before long we were sipping Level straight again. No spitting this time, but toward the end of the night, just a little drooling.
Justin Jimenez firmly believes we should draft beer, not people. And he always sees better through the bottom of an empty glass. The associate editor for Las Vegas Magazine, he can be reached at [email protected].