Café Martorano The cuisine, from south Philly, by way of Lauderdale, is the Godfather of all things Italian: terrific homemade meatballs, baked clams, rigatoni with a pork-rich Sunday gravy and portions large enough to make Tony Soprano cry “uncle.” Inside the Rio. 777-7777. Dinner nightly, 6 p.m.-midnight, occasionally until 1 a.m.
