Dining

Sweets Raku does savory just as well as dessert

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Sweets Raku’s Iberico-potato croissant is buttery and bacon-y.
Photo: Sam Morris
Jason Harris

If you’ve been wondering if the savory side of Sweets Raku can live up to the beautifully ridiculous desserts, the short answer is: Go there now and immediately eat everything.

Lunch is served only on Saturdays and Sundays, from noon to 5 p.m. For $20 you get a three-course offering and one amazing dessert, or for $27, you can do the full lunch and a three-course prix fixe dessert. It starts with an aperitif-sized cup of soup: The lobster is smooth and full of flavor; the chicken has a consommé-like broth, chopped vegetables and the always-welcome addition of bacon. Next, fresh greens in a soy-based dressing are mixed with crunchy pickled veggies and a scoop of creamy potato salad, balancing texture and taste.

For mains, choose between three types of croissant sandwiches (Iberico bacon and potato, grilled salmon and ikura (salmon roe) or vegetarian ratatouille) and three types of quiche (vegetarian with shimeji mushroom, ham or crab). The delicious Iberico with potato is served on a light and buttery croissant filled with not only substantial bacon and thinly sliced potatoes, but also a caprese-style mix of mozzarella, basil and scrumptiously blistered cherry tomatoes. The shimeji quiche is eggy, custardy and mushroomy, but not crusty, as a baked yellow pepper stands in for the pastry.

This might be the best lunch deal in town, another thoughtful, well-executed hit for all things Raku. Now if only they’d do breakfast.

Sweets Raku 5040 W. Spring Mountain Road #3, 290-7181. Monday & Tuesday, Thursday & Friday, 6 p.m.-midnight; Saturday, noon-midnight; Sunday, noon-9 p.m.

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