Like our own Fremont Street or “Glitter Gulch,” Tokyo has a little pocket once known as a red light district. Though prostitution was outlawed in Japan in the 1950s, people still stand in the doorways in the winding alleys of the Golden Gai bar district in Shinjuku ward, beckoning passersby, promising them a good time if they step inside.
Now, a little slice of Golden Gai is available at the Venetian just steps inside Wakuda’s wandering hallway. The new Golden Gai Cocktail Club is dimly lit with neon accents and lanterns covered in netting. Artist Shohei Otomo’s contemporary works give cyberpunk and anime vibes, including a kimono and aviators-clad geisha baring her teeth as she plays ping pong.
Like the Shinjuku bars, this one feels intimate with just seven tables, but Golden Gai is elevated for Vegas-style nightlife. An outdoor patio with a view of the Boulevard provides additional seating. Inside, live DJs inject energy into the space. Behind the bar, a wall of spirits reaches the ceiling.
Their seasonal menu of alcoholic beverages, all priced $22, is nature-inspired, with ingredients like ripe peach and premium Japanese whisky. The Golden Gai Cure is a concoction of Toki whisky, lemon, honey and candied ginger. The Sleepy Kaiju refreshes with mezcal, Japanese melon liqueur, yuzu, lime, agave, cucumber and shiso. For a more boozy and direct cocktail, try the Ancient Lore, a Japanese version of an old fashioned with Toki, absinthe and angostura bitters.
The bite-sized food menu also satisfies, as you would expect from a kitchen connected with the international fine-dining establishment that is Wakuda. Juicy morsels of marinated Jidori chicken breast are pounded flat, breaded and fried for delectable nuggets served with yuzu ranch and microgreens ($15). Atop contrasting crispy rice, soy caramel spicy tuna melts in your mouth ($24). Japanese Wagyu katsu is a hearty slider with tonkatsu sauce, Japanese mayo and crunchy lettuce ($16). And don’t forget the handrolls from the sushi bar.
Filled with delights and surprises, Golden Gai is worth venturing a little out of your way.
Golden Gai Venetian, 702-665-8592, venetianlasvegas.com. Sunday-Monday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m.; Tuesday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-midnight; Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-1 a.m.
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