FEATURE: Neon Honolulu: Hawaiian Culture Guide to Las Vegas

(It’s not definitive, but it’s damn close)

Michael Toole










Hangin' with Hawaiians



There are a few things you should know if you ever want to break the ice with Hawaiians and let them know you're on your game, so here's a cheat sheet for you:


Spam Masubi—Before you skip this in disgust, keep in mind that 87 percent of Hormel's national Spam sales occur in Hawaii, so no sneering, please! All the fixins' are here—Spam, rice, nori, sometimes with egg, sometimes not, and a smattering of teriyaki sauce. Sure this snack has enough sodium nitrite to corrode your stomach lining, but it's the bomb.


Checkers and Pogo—An essential component to many a childhood memory for those that grew up in Hawaii in the late '60s and '70s. Checkers and Pogo were two beloved hosts of a very popular weekday, after-school children's program. Featuring two very unhip guys—one portly and bespectacled (Checkers) and one short and beared (Pogo), this duo entertained an entire generation of latchkey kids with their bizarre collection of bad puns, animated shorts, cornball skits, and awkward sing-a-longs ("Merry Un-happy Birthday!"). It all resulted in a refreshingly surreal viewing experience, and a most cherished childhood memory for countless Hawaiians.


Li Hing Mui—Go to any Hawaiian snack store and you'll find several items treated with "Li Hing Mui" in the title. They've got "Ling Hing" dried plums, mangos, cherries, and yes - even protein shakes! What kind of treatment these snack foods get with "ling hing," I'm not exactly sure. It's basically just sugar, salt and licorice, but they make snacks hit the right mark between sweet and tart, and it's outrageously addictive.


Don Ho—Word to the wise: Don't greet a Hawaiian with a rendition of "Tiny Bubbles," or you'll be in for a rude awakening. We have yet to meet a Hawaiian who has anything positive to say about the man. Perhaps they find his halting pigeon English and flat, monotonal singing style (which conjures up the laziest of Hawaiian stereotypes) a bit of a turnoff. Don't say you weren't warned.


Hawaiian Eye, Hawaii Five-O and Magnum P.I.—These are the three most popular and recognizable network shows that were filmed on the islands. Although the leads for these programs were played by "haoles" (white guys), bemoaning the fact that all indigenous Hawaiians and/or Asians were featured in only secondary roles will give you the opportunity to come across as politically sensitive.






Aloha


You have to be pretty myopic if you haven't noticed the strong Hawaiian population in the Valley. With roughly 60,000 of them, not to mention about a quarter of a million visitors a year from the great pineapple state, it's hardly a wonder that they've lovingly referred to Las Vegas as "Neon Honolulu" or the "ninth island of Hawaii" (good for you if you can name the other eight islands).


The story of how and why so many Hawaiians chose Las Vegas as their home choice in the mainland has to start with the late, great Sam Boyd. As legend has it, Boyd, who long had a love affair with Hawaii, retired in that state in the early '80s. Ever the entrepreneur, it wasn't long before he started to sponsor some package tours to Vegas, the cornerstone being some inexpensive comps and room rates at his properties—most notably his downtown casino, the California Hotel. Soon, Hawaiians were visiting the city in droves.


As the decade drew to a close, Hawaii's economy went south and its unemployment rate began to skyrocket. Vegas, with its explosive population growth, relatively cheap housing and low cost of living, became the mecca for dislocated Hawaiians trying to start life anew. In the last 15 years, the influx of islanders to the Valley have been so steady that fits of hyperbole—like comparing Hawaiian migration here to the Okie movement— began to abound.


Exaggerations aside, there's no denying that Hawaiians have settled quite well into the city and have woven their culture (complete with bakeries, eateries, clothing and jewelry stores) into the mainstream, creating a lively learning experience for those inclined to explore Neon Honolulu.




Entertainment


If you can allow one disclaimer, let it be the karaoke listing. "Know any good karaoke places in town?" is one of the questions most local people ask. So for their and objectivity's sake, here's a brief rundown of some karaoke joints in town, which also feature live Hawaiian music sometimes, plus—there's a few radio stations radio programs devoted to island tunes:



Aloha Bar

2605 South Decatur Boulevard, #110

702-364-0064

Karaoke times vary.



Lally's of Las Vegas

1750 North Rancho Drive

702-648-6897

Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturdays.



Las Vegas Club

18 East Fremont Street

702-385-1664 or 1-800-634-6532

Hawaiian Karaoke every Friday 8:00pm - midnight

www.playatlvc.com



Pupule's

4650-A East Sunset Road

702-436-PUPU (7878)

Hawaiian karaoke Tuesday - Sunday



Aloha Friday Concert

Friday, May 28

6:00pm - 10:00pm



Barley's Casino & Brewing Company

4500 E. Sunset Road

Free Aloha Friday Concert featuring Hawaiian Reggae Band Pau Hana from San Diego, Las Vegas' Sonsiu & Big Family Records.

702-458-2739, Ext. 202.



Got P.O.I (Points of Interests)

KLAV AM 1230

12:30pm on Sundays

Request Line 702-731-1230

www.klav1230am.com

A variety of Hawaiian music, interviews, and news. The programs pacing has all the fluidity of a medicine ball, but it is informative.

Also, check out It's Aloha Sunday on KLAV, a mix of Hawaiian Music, talk and news, 6 - 7 p.m. Sunday evenings.



Little Grass Shack

KUNV 91.5 FM

Your favorite island jams from 5 a.m. - 9 a.m. Saturday mornings. Las Vegas' only FM Hawaiian radio show.



Internet Radio Based in Las Vegas:



Aloha2go Radio

http://aloha2go.com/radioshow



Pipeline 2 Paradise

http://www.pipeline2paradise.com




Restaurants


While most of us Vegans might use the word "local" to describe things related to this city, Hawaiians have a more transient take on the word. To them it captures a little more than that. To them, "local" means anything that represents any cultural aspect of the 50th state—in short, they take the word with them wherever they go. So an islander could be in Jackson, Mississippi, but when they mention "local food" or "where locals hang out," rest assured they're referring to Hawaiian cuisine or hanging spots and nothing remotely related to the Deep South.


Now that we have that clear, let's kick off this guide right, and talk about the grub. A Hawaiian (local) menu is much like Hawaii itself, reflecting a hodgepodge of almost every Asian race: Chinese, Japanese, Filipino, Korean, as well as Portuguese and American touches. (Note: The foods are a bit high in sodium and fat.)



Aloha Kitchen

2605 South Decatur Boulevard

702-364-0064

4745 South Maryland Parkway

702-895-9444

www.alohakitchenlv.com

A real highlight for great, affordable Hawaiian cuisine. Both restaurants have identical menus, the standouts being Kalua Pig (roasted, shredded served on a bed of cabbage) and the terrific lumpia shanghai (Filipino egg rolls stuffed with ground pork, chopped onions and minced carrots).



Aloha Specialties

California Hotel and Casino

www.thecal.com

12 Ogden Avenue

702-382-0338

It says a lot about an eatery when their appetizers can get you stuffed! One of the cornerstones of great local food for the past decade, there's not a bad item on the menu. Still, if you need a recommendation, go with either of the teriyaki rice bowls (chicken or beef, with mushroom and onions, both under $4!). As for the appetizers, spam masubi (Spam sushi, I kid you not!), or the kim chee (fermented Korean cabbage) are quite satisfying. You might have to wait up to an hour on Friday and Saturday nights to get in, so they must be doing something right.



Grace's Hawaiian Cafe

2129 Industrial Road

702-384-7223

Service-oriented eatery with some good grub. Try the poke (pronounced "pokay"), a glorious appetizer with a neat mixture of soy sauce, raw tuna, chile, onions and lomi lomi, a sharp salmon tartar. It's more filling than you think.



Hawaiian Hale

2439 South Valley View Boulevard

702-362-6922

This cheerfully low-rent eating stop might be woefully low on decorations, but you can relax and enjoy the laulau (salted butterfish served on a banana leaf ); and loco moco (a fried egg, hamburger patty, and steamed rice topped with brown gravy—it's a breakfast item, honest!)



Hawaiian Plantation House

10940 South Eastern Avenue

702-990-6341

A quiet treasure. Loaded with good food such as various teriyaki dishes, swordfish, coconut baked fish, and much more. Other selling points are its quick service and 24-hour bar.



Huli's Hawaiian Style Restaurant

113 West Lake Mead Drive

702-567-5353

Let's cut to the chase: Their huli huli chicken (chicken marinated in soy, fruit and teriyaki sauce) is to die for, and saimin (a ramen-type noodle soup, with bits of egg, fish spam) is equally fine.



L & L Hawaiian Barbecue

687 North Stephanie Street

702-433-0240

7891 West Tropical Parkway, Suite 120

www.hawaiianbarbecue.com

The McDonald's of Hawaiian fast foods. The presentation couldn't be simpler: plastic take out boxes and cheap plastic utensils. But the food, like shrimp curry, fried mahi mahi, teri pork chops, spareribs, short ribs, saimin, and chicken katsu, more than make up for that.



The Hawaiian Seafood Luau

The Palms Hotel and Casino

702-942-7777

4:30-10 pm, Wed

$15.95 per person.

A bit of a cheat, sure. Complete with strolling Island musicians, and food servers in garishly colored Hawaiian flowered shirts, it's all a bit ersatz, but who cares when the food is so damn good? The buffet is packed with delicious seafoods: clams, crabs, jumbo shrimps, oysters, and—well, you get the idea.



Ross J's Aloha Grill

4451 East Sunset Road

702-435-5600

Ross offers the classic stuff in enormous portions —think of the closing sequence on The Flinstones when the dinosaur ribs tip over the car and you'll get the idea—and it's the katsu dishes that really stand out.



Yoko Sushi - Hawaiian Mix Plate

2351 North Rainbow Boulevard # 103

702-435-5600

Yoko might be a bit out of the way if you don't live in the northwest, but it's worth the drive for the mahi mahi (not your typical dolphin fare—Yoko serves this plate with a great salty kick). All platters are served with mac salad and two scoops of rice.




Snacks and Sweets



Ale'as Manapua

3650 East Flamingo Road

702-450-0015

An amazing assortment of baked goods from the islands, with manapua (steamed red BBQ bun) being particularly seductive, and the guava cakes rock.



Beef Jerky Store

112 North 3rd Street

702-388-0073

www.beefjerkystore.com

There's every type of jerky you could possibly want; there are more li hing goodies hanging on the walls then you would no what to do with; there's even a terrific selection of sugar-free candies and healthy all-natural nuts.



Las Vegas Jerkys, Etc.

Plaza Hotel

702-385-7991

Jerky, candy, cookies, bagel chips, nuts—you want 'em, they got 'em.



Vegas 808

California Hotel

Las Vegas, NV 89101

702-388-8855

www.thecal.com

Located on the second floor of the California Hotel, one of Boyd Gaming's signature properties Downtown, this small shop offers a divers collection of jerky, candy, nuts and dried fruit.




Shops, Stops and Reading



Aloha Swim & Sport

7501 West Lake Mead Blvd.

702-233-0045

Top-of-the-line selection of Hawaiian gifts, shoes, dresses, hats, bags and jewelry.



Hawaii's Store

2439 South Valley View, #130

702-368-0808 or Toll Free 877-398-1688

Like the folklore of the crazy aunt whose attic hid many splendidly awkward treasures, this store has an eclectic mix. Jewelry, an enormous collection of Island music, muumuus, Hawaiian shirts so popularized by the characters from M*A*S*H and much more. Not to be missed.



Hawaiian Gift and Craft

Fantastic's Indoor Swapmeet

Booth #H-14

1717 South Decatur Boulevard

702-309-9100 or 702-806-1104

Gleefully kitschy selection of Hawaiian gifts and crafts: puka shells, grass skirts, lauhala handbags, bamboo chimes, and many other accessories.



Hilo Hatties

www.hilohattie.com

Desert Passages Mall, Suite 255

702-733-6900

An excellent stop for all kinds of Island themed calendars, books, CD's clothing, jewelry, fabric, etc. find out what's happening in the city for "local" culture:



ABC Store

www.abcstores.com

Hawaiian gifts, clothing, accessories, coffee.


23 Fremont Street

702-380-3098


Fashion Show Mall

702-732-2358


Desert Passages Mall

702-733-7182


4560 South Arville Street, C-9

702-248-7416

It's not just the Kona coffee, Hawaiian Sun Fruit nectars or coconut cookies that keep me coming back to this popular general store from Hawaii. Truly, you'll get a kick out of the friendly "locals" who work there, and who are virtually walking bulletin boards for the Hawaiian community in the Valley. Fliers and brochures about Hawaiian activity abound in their stores, so check it out.


www.alohavalley.com

Billed as "Your Island Connection in Las Vegas," this site is best for its events section—listing concerts and meetings around the Valley.



Ohana Magazine

2485 West Wigwam Avenue, #112

702-434-0544

www.ohanamagazine.com

Back in 1996, relocated kamaaina, (native born Hawaiian) Mel Ozeki decided to put together a a magazine for Hawaiians who were not just located in his new hometown of Vegas, but across the mainland. You might not have seen his magazine in your dentist's office, but with a nationwide subscribership of over 10,000, Mel has done quite well. His writing is a bit stiff, but when it comes to consolidating so much information about Hawaiian activity across the nation in an 18-page bi-monthly. Mel's the man!

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