Before we talk about Stray Pirate, a canine-and-buccaneer-themed tiki bar, we need to acknowledge that groaner puns are inevitable. My editorial crewmate Shannon suggested I begin this piece with “A dog walks into a bar.” My friend Cameron refuses to call the bar by its given name, preferring “The Salty Dog.” I almost went with “A dog and pirate show” for the headline, and perhaps I should’ve. Ruff Seas! Fifty Leashes! The Pooch Deck! Okay, I’m done.
Fortunately, Stray Pirate is in on the joke. This charming, intimate and smoke-free space, newly opened in the Arts District, is richly appointed with nautical swag—real timber ceiling and walls, hanging lanterns, portholes offering views of high-def “underwater” scenes, and best of all, portraits of pirate dogs in various swashbuckling poses: brandishing flintlock pistols, sharing bottles of grog, clutching daggers in their teeth. Their expressions range from steely-eyed determination to “Who’s a good dog? Aw, c’mon, whoza good doggie?”
It’s cute, but not frivolously so, because Stray Pirate is steadfastly committed to its theme. The mugs are adorned with crossbones, with a paw print in place of the usual skull. They’re fitting vessels for the only thing that sets a tiki bar above and apart: the drinks. The bar’s opening menu is relatively small—six original cocktails and three classics, all $15—but there are some rare, glorious flavors to be unearthed within.
I started with the Swig & Berries, a concoction of Hera the Dog vodka, Svol Aquavit, fresh lemon and rhubarb, garnished with a big strawberry. It wasn’t overly sweet—a trap that many tiki drinks fall into—and it went down so smoothly that I could’ve easily downed another immediately. I also tried the Buck-O-Neer, a choose-your-own-adventure mule made with house-brewed ginger beer, cardamom, a house made POG mix (passion fruit, orange and guava) and your choice of Ketel One, Hayman’s Royal Dock gin or Appleton Estates rum. (I went with gin. Good choice, but I’ll return for the other two.)
Also on deck: The Stray Dog Grog brings together Sarge’s Blend Rum, demerara syrup and fresh lime and grapefruit juices. The potent Robbing the Gulf starts with Gran Centario reposado and adds Italicus, lime juice, watermelon, jalapeño and tajin; it’ll get your vessel listing properly. In describing the punch of the Get It Kraken—Novo Fogo Bar Strength cachaca, passion fruit, calamansi, coconut, lime and kaffir—the menu tips its tricorn to Finding Nemo: “Aw, you guys made me ink.”
If you prefer a more traditional tiki taste, try the house’s Mai Tai or Zombie, both of which are made with the bar’s artistic flourish. And non-drinkers can forgo booze completely with the “Dry Tai,” one of several non-alcoholic beverages Stray Pirate offers.
Las Vegas boasts a good number of tiki bars. Each has own unique take on the form, from the tiki tradition-meets-punk swagger of Frankie’s Tiki Room to the liquid theme park delirium of The Golden Tiki. Though it be small and humble, matey, Stray Pirate is a formidable addition to Vegas’ growing tiki fleet. It’s chill, cuddly and friendly, but you’d better believe that it’s got bite where it counts.
Stray Pirate 1321 S. Commerce Street, straypirate.com. Wednesday-Sunday, 4 p.m.-midnight.
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