Dare we say Superfrico is Las Vegas’ most Las Vegiest place?” It’s quite the question posed on the website for this new Italian restaurant at the Cosmopolitan, the first full-fledged F&B experience for the edgy entertainment company Spiegelworld. It’s evocative and brash, but it’s not wrong.
Spiegelworld has created three of the Strip’s most fun and mischievous shows, and a fourth arrives next year. Opium is the one that lives in the same space as Superfrico, and there’s some very spontaneous-feeling entertainment happening in the dining room, too.
Though we’re focusing on the food for now, you can’t really take a piece of this experience and separate it from the rest. Nowhere else will you find a fantastic, square slice of buttery, crispy pizza topped with pistachio pesto, mortadella and stracciatella ($19 for four squares) in a slightly psychedelic environment while a juggler or burlesque artist does weird things a few feet away. That’s why it’s so Vegas.
Make no mistake, the food and drinks are the main attraction. Start with that pizza and a Porn Star Martini (with tequila and passion fruit) or a Chocolate Boulevardier from Beard Award winner Leo Robitschek’s cocktail menu. The bright and beautiful giardiniera ($11)—basically a salad of wonderful pickles—and the artfully composed calamari with basil oil ($18) are my other favorite starters.
At the heart of chef Anthony Falco’s menu of riffs on classics are those square pies, a completely separate section of round pies (either shape offers vegetarian or vegan options), some amazing pasta creations and a few big plates worth sharing with your friends. The chicken Parm ($32) is perfect, crispy and rich and cheesy with an unexpected citrus kick that sticks with you. A 40-ounce tomahawk ($185) is the ballers-only flex, but the New York strip ($65) is really all you need, juicy and decadent.
Before you get one of those, share the king crab bucatini ($38) or the lamb sausage ragu pasta ($24) with Mediterranean flavors of mint, labneh and za’atar.
Is Superfrico tasty enough to want to go without the show? Absolutely. But the food and fun and service will make you want to stay out all night, so you might need to catch the late performance of Opium, or at least wander around until you find the ski lodge bar or some other discovery you haven’t been made yet.
SUPERFRICO Cosmopolitan, 702-534-3419. Wednesday-Sunday, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.
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