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Taste

Don’t let the ‘Sleepy’ fool you—this barbecue joint rocks!

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Mmmmmmm … Yeah, we’ll take that to go, please.

The Details

Sleepy Wilson's Barbecue
101 S. Rainbow Blvd., 880-7500. Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.

Calling all eaters looking for an easy-access, lip-smacking takeout joint: How can you not be curious about something called Sleepy Wilson’s Barbecue? Still, I’m not sure the name fits; the flavors are robust and lively, and the only thing sleepy about this place is the lonely strip mall that surrounds it, right off the Rainbow Curve.

There’s no eating in, yet, at this months-old mom and pop, but stop through on your way home and pick up dinner for four ($39.99) including three meats and four sides. The mild barbecue sauce flirts with cloying sweetness, but the richness of the well-seasoned, perfectly cooked meats balances everythisng out. Crisp, juicy chicken wings are a hit, but Sleepy is really all about the pork—the meaty St. Louis-style spareribs and joyously messy rib tips are the succulent building blocks of a decadent feast. I even like the coleslaw.

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Brock Radke has been working in media in Las Vegas for 15 years. Prior to being named associate editor, he ...

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