It’s pretty easy to make fun of the pumpkin spice latte craze. Jokes about our collective addiction to this seasonal flavor phenomenon are almost as prevalent as the drink itself. On his HBO show Last Week Tonight, John Oliver pointed out that the insanely popular Starbucks treat actually tastes like a candle, “and I don't mean it tastes like a candle smells. Pumpkin spice lattes taste like a candle tastes."

My favorite recent PSL joke came from Saturday Night Live Weekend Update anchor Colin Jost: "An Illinois woman has purchased 52 boxes of a pumpkin spice latte mix, which is enough to last an entire year, and no need to Google it—she's white."

But the jokes aren’t diminishing the flavor’s fanfare. Proving its world domination is almost complete, Umami Burger has created a limited-time pumpkin spice latte burger ($12), a beef patty with a coffee glaze, garlic aioli, tempura kabocha and spiced mascarpone cheese. This fascinating creation became available at the SLS Las Vegas version of Umami Burger on November 6, and there’s no official word how long it will last.

Should you rush to eat it? If you’re a PSL fan, you probably should. Like I said to my Umami server when she asked my opinion: It tastes like what it’s supposed to taste like, but it’s not gross.

There is quite a bit of sweetness, so if the combination of sweet and meat freaks you out, maybe skip it. The aioli is lightly flavored, so it mostly offers richness instead of a garlic blast that could bring down the ship. The glaze has strong, earthy coffee notes, if a bit too sweet. The mascarpone is creamy and delightful, offering the whipped cream element of the latte, and it’s spiced with some combination of cinnamon, nutmeg and clove. The star of the show is the delicately fried chunks of kabocha, an Asian winter squash similar to pumpkin but with a brighter, cleaner flavor. Umami should start offering this tempura treat year-round as a side dish. On the burger, they bring some necessary crunch and mandatory pumpkin-ness.

It’s big, still beefy, and way over the top, but overall, the pumpkin spice latte burger is a success. I think. At least it doesn’t taste like a candle.

Umami Burger SLS, 702-761-7614. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m.-midnight.