The Las Vegas steakhouse can feel ubiquitous, so operators focus on ways to differentiate their versions while still delivering a time-honored experience. It’s a fine line to walk, one the newest steakhouse on the Strip, Carversteak at Resorts World, manages deftly.
The first local culinary offering from Vegas-based firm Carver Road Hospitality, Carversteak marks the return of uber-talented chef Daniel Ontiveros to the Strip, where he had previously worked in the kitchens of such beloved spots as Comme Ça and Bouchon. In his first executive chef position on the Boulevard, Ontiveros shines.
Begin with his Wagyu cheesesteak bites ($21), which are truthfully more than a bite. The two-to-an-order mini sandwiches, featuring six-month-aged provolone Mornay sauce hinting of truffle and thinly sliced Wagyu swaddled in buttery rolls, are a must order. Equally memorable are caviar poppers ($22), light gougères topped with fish roe bursting with salinity, offset by a bright and creamy lemon-chive creme fraiche. The poppers are as refreshing as the Wagyu bites are decadent.
Contrasting nicely with the meat-centric menu are some lighter seafood options. The bigeye tuna tartare ($26) is highlighted with an aji amarillo aioli that delivers a hint of heat, while the crispy rice spicy salmon ($19), Ontiveros’ play on a sushi-joint staple, offers sweet and spicy. And while the lobster en croute ($95), contained within puff pastry, is tempting and visually impressive, this isn’t a lobsterhouse. Instead, one should continue diving into the menu’s red meat section, where a variety of cuts from esteemed countrywide beef purveyors await.
My preferred selection is the 28-day dry-aged Kansas City bone-in strip ($76) from San Rafael’s Flannery Steaks, combining what I consider the pinnacle of steak traits: dry-aging and a bone-in cut. The combination delivers just the right amount of funk with extra tenderness delivered near the bone. But you certainly couldn’t be faulted for ordering either the Australian F-1 Wagyu striploin ($90)—not nearly as fatty as its Japanese brethren—or the 8-ounce Snake River Farms rib cap ($70), a favorite cut enjoying renewed interest on menus.
A steakhouse is only as good as its sides, and Carver’s don’t disappoint. Crispy bourbon Brussels sprouts ($12) are a highlight, rife with smoky bacon and garlic chili crunch for textural contrast in a melding of sweet and salty. Equally successful is the mac and cheese gratin ($15), spiral cavatappi pasta swimming in six-month aged cheddar and baked to a crisp. And loaded potato croquettes ($14) are a fun play on the traditional baked potato, a handheld version accompanied by a sour cream and chive sauce for dipping.
Refreshingly, Carver doesn’t take itself too seriously. Whether it’s the whimsical wine list with headings such as “Que Sera Syrah” and quotes from SNL philosopher Jack Handey, or a knife box presented to steak eaters prior to their cut’s arrival, emblazoned with the words “choose your weapon,” the restaurant delivers as easygoing a vibe as a multimillion-dollar Strip venue can. It is a welcome addition to the city’s big steakhouse scene.
CARVERSTEAK Resorts World, 702-550-2333. Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 5-11 p.m.
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