Taste

New Tao Group Strip spot Cathédrale makes a dramatic impact

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A prime aged ribeye at Cathédrale
Anthony Mair / Courtesy

Nestled inside the Aria space which formerly housed Sage, Cathédrale is Tao Group Hospitality’s latest Strip offering. It’s another successful New York transplant, one that admirably delivers a French/Mediterranean menu against a backdrop of blue velvet and bronze.

The first impression is an entryway ready-made for the Insta crowd. For those familiar with its longtime predecessor, the layout hasn’t significantly shifted other than this now off-center entrance. Hanging light fixtures along the walkway hint at the space’s most breathtaking effects—ball bearing ceiling features above the bar and main dining room. The ornate installations provide a nouveau effect, mimicking the vaulted ceilings of European cathedrals while reimagining them in a style all their own.

While taking in the scenery, why not grab a cocktail? If you’re looking to impress, there’s nothing more playfully ostentatious than the Quaternary ($70), a martini served on its own ice block with an accompanying spoonful of Kaluga caviar. More subdued is the Adagio Per Miele ($22), a gin-based martini riff laced with basil eau de vie and rested on beeswax, which endows the drink with viscosity and hints of honey to balance its inherent booziness. Your choice of libation might simply depend upon how much attention you’re looking to attract.

La Bohème cocktail at Cathédrale

La Bohème cocktail at Cathédrale

Food-wise, begin with executive chef Jason Hall’s watermelon salad ($25), a simple summer concoction of chunked watermelon dotted with mint sprigs, salty feta cheese crumbles and a finish of watermelon vinaigrette. Comparably sweet are the Roquefort and Marcona almond-stuffed warm dates ($12) which explode with funkiness. And grilled Hen of the Woods mushrooms ($24), a down-to-earth moniker for maitakes, shine with an accompanying basil pesto.

But Hall’s most memorable creation is Cathédrale’s destination dish, the Omelette ($37)—a stylish riff on the breakfast staple so noteworthy it’s afforded its own menu section. This ethereal melding of Boursin cheese and eggs inspired by the chef’s hotel room service order comes gilded with Kaluga caviar, crème fraîche and house-made potato chips. The simple combination is spectacular—simultaneously salty, silky and sweet. It’s a must for every table.

Among entrees, buttery black truffle fettuccine ($59) wafts of earthiness, a rich, ample dish fit for sharing. While steaks are a Strip fixture, Cathédrale’s 30-day dry-aged ribeye ($84) stands out with its bright, herbal sauce verte. And don’t overlook the umami-laden prime cheeseburger ($35), garnished with what could be the best tomato slice in town—sourced directly from the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market—and accompanied by hand-cut fries that rank among the Valley’s finest.

After all that, try to save room for the Sorrento lemon ($19), a treat bursting with Asian yuzu and calamansi disguised as the actual citrus. In an evening of photo-worthy opportunities, it’s a fitting finale.

CATHÉDRALE Aria, 702.590.8577, taogroup.com. Sunday-Thursday, 5-10:30 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 5-11 p.m.

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Tags: Dining, Aria, Food
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