As will not soon be forgotten, COVID savaged Las Vegas’ hospitality industry with closures across the Valley, one of the most impactful of which was the Palms’ extended downtime. But its acquisition and reopening by San Manuel Gaming is gradually bringing the property back to prominence, including a notable spot in the culinary scene.
Philadelphia celebrity chef Marc Vetri’s first foray into Vegas, Vetri Cucina, originally opened on the 56th floor of the resort’s Ivory Tower in late 2018. It finally reopened in November under seasoned chef de cuisine Michael Rubinstein, a native who has risen in the local culinary scene with stints ranging from the Goodwich to David Chang’s Strip venues Momofuku and Majordōmo.
The Vetri menu has turned over approximately 40% from its previous incarnation, combining Philadelphia classics with dishes created in Vegas. One newcomer is the zeppole ($24), fried sourdough doughnuts made with pecorino cheese, layered with prosciutto di Parma and finished with toasted black pepper-infused honey. It’s a holy trinity of salty, sweet and savory.
Another addition is the Beausoliel oysters ($28), slightly briny New Brunswick bivalves highlighted by an eye-catching giardiniera mignonette. The mignonette hearkens back to Rubi’s Goodwich tenure and while most might associate the pickled condiment more with Chicago than Philadelphia, its prevalence across Italy makes it a natural fit for the venue’s upscale offerings.
Among the staples are house-made pastas crafted with house-milled flour. The diverse selection ranges from bright taleggio ravioli ($36) with honey and walnut (which Rubi refers to as a “cheese plate in pasta form”) to castoncelli alla Bergamasca ($36), a savory pasta shell stuffed with a meaty combo of chicken, pork, beef and salumi contrasted by a sweet brown butter sauce dotted with bacon.
Another Vetri classic might be the menu’s biggest surprise. The rustic roasted goat ($64) is a revelation, mesquite-smoked goat garnished with crispy goat skin. Served simply atop house-milled polenta, its smoke complements the protein’s typical gaminess without overwhelming. It’s a superb winter dish
VETRI CUCINA Palms, 702-944-5900, vetricucinalv.com. Tuesday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m.
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