La Popular CDMX is off to a fast start at the Palms, the third location for the fashionable Mexican restaurant from Mexico City-based Grupo Carolo and the fast-growing Eureka Restaurant Group. You can find it in the poolside space formerly occupied by the Bobby Flay restaurant Shark, which wasn’t open long enough to break through the glut of casino restaurants clamoring for attention from locals and visitors.
As a result, executive chef Cesar de la Parra and his crew are essentially working in a brand-new Vegas venue after making a few tweaks to mold the space to the La Popular concept. But the somewhat coastal, gold-hued environment isn’t the main ingredient that has been captivating guests so far. That’s the food.
“I never thought I would be having these conversations about something that has been my dream for a long time, this goal to show people all over the world what a fantastic Mexican meal is without compromising in preparation or flavor,” de la Parra says. “Everything is fresh-made from scratch, our own tortillas, our own salsas made every day with fresh ingredients, and people are realizing that and it does make a difference.”
When we decide which local Mexican restaurant to visit, we might think of a particular dish that we love and who makes the best version. This chef has a different approach: “The thing I always think about when making a dish is, does this make me want to wake up in the morning, am I craving it? And if it doesn’t, we don’t put it on the menu, and I hope to have a lot of people feeling that,” he says.
It’s the way de la Parra feels about the ahi tuna tostadas ($18), topped with avocado, soy vinaigrette, chipotle mayo and crispy leeks. This appetizer’s layers of flavors and textures are emblematic of the La Popular way—elevating something that seems simple, maximizing a classic experience.
The menu is uncomplicated, with other starters from the ceviche bar and shareable favorites like guacamole ($11) and queso fundido with chorizo ($16). Taco and enchilada options do the heavy lifting, with additional entree choices including ribeye steak or adobo prawn fajitas ($26) or a half-rack of slow-roasted pork ribs in habanero barbecue sauce ($23).
You’ll recognize all these taco fillings, but again, each dish is different, featuring special ingredients that stand out. Carnitas ($15) offer the familiar pickled red onions and guac, but the creamy chipotle prawn tacos ($15) have refried beans and rice in the flour tortilla with a splash of salsa verde, creating a hearty burrito effect. Campechano tacos ($15) or enchiladas ($19) offer a mixed grill in every bite with ribeye, chorizo and chicharrones, spiked with lorenza salsa made with charred tomatoes and cotija cheese.
We expect accessibility from Mexican menus, and this one delivers.
“When we were having the conversations with the Palms and just in the development of La Popular across the board, it’s always about a restaurant giving you the opportunity to have a very affordable meal by saying you can have two tacos and a beer and that would be plenty,” de la Parra says. “It’s very satisfying, but you can also get high-end tequilas and mezcals, or try something new. The diversity and the range of possibilities for Mexican food, what restaurants provide right now is fantastic. It doesn’t alienate anyone, it’s for everyone, and that’s one of the most magical things about this concept.”
LA POPULAR CDMX Palms, 702-479-2712, lapopularcdmx.com. Monday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-midnight; Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m.-midnight.
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