What is this thing? It’s quite simple and very delicious, but it seems to have an identity crisis. It’s fresh corn masa shaped and cooked into a thick, pillowy tortilla-like disc, filled with different spiced meats, sauces and vegetables. At Esmeralda’s Cafe (1000 E. Charleston Blvd, 388-1404), a Salvadoran spot, they call it a pupusa and they close off the crispy corn edges of favorites like the bean and salty cheese pupusa. But at Las Gorditas, which has multiple locations around the north and east parts of the Valley, it’s dubbed a gordita, and it’s more of a stuffed sandwich, with goodies sneaking out one side. Try the green chile chicken, rich mole or crispy pork version. Call it what you want, as long as you order me a couple of gorditas, er, pupusas. Whatever.