I’ve developed a dim sum habit. I’m not sure why munching dumplings from silver steam trays has become my go-to lunch; surely it’s not the best or cheapest or healthiest meal. Call it a guilty pleasure. But there are a few dishes that are worth the guilt, worth knowing you’ve over-stuffed yourself on greasy-good morsels. I love the holy trinity of har gow (shrimp dumpling), shu mai (pork dumpling) and char siu bao (steamed barbecue pork bun), but you can get those anywhere. My dim sum cravings are magnetized to Cathay House for its crispy chicken wings with their hint of maple sweetness, crunchy wonton purses filled with shrimp and herbs, and the best bite: salt-baked shrimp eaten with head and shell still on, covered in fried chilis and garlic. It’s a briny, spicy, bitter and savory jumble of flavors and textures, and I eat a whole plate every time.