Taste

Mexican food arrives at Aria with Javier’s

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Behold the wall-consuming chainsaw-on-wood sculpture at Javier’s.

The Details

Javier’s
Aria, 866-590-3637.
Daily, 11:30 a.m.-midnight.

There’s something incredibly cool in the new Mexican restaurant just off the casino at Aria: a 3,000-pound, 10-foot-tall chainsaw sculpture. It was created by Oregon artist J. Chester Armstrong as a representation of the ancient Mayan belief in three worlds, kind of a heaven/here/hell thing. It’s strikingly huge, a little spooky and an interesting addition to CityCenter’s tremendous art collection.

As for the rest of Javier’s, well … isn’t that chainsaw art cool? Imported from Southern California, Javier’s is a big change from the hipster steakhouse (Union) this space used to be, but the muddled Mexican menu is a bit pedestrian. In addition to standard combo plates and signature seafood enchiladas ($27), there’s a bounty of grilled beef and hearty braised dishes with heavy sauces like beef short ribs in chile negro sauce ($32). Familiar flavors are here, but they’re prepared with a heavy hand. Cool place, boring food.

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