Taste

You haven’t had egg foo young like this before

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Soul Foo Young’s combo egg foo young
Photo: Steve Marcus
Greg Thilmont

Egg foo young. Do these three words bring to mind floppy, thin omelets swimming in starchy, bland sauce? Well, kung fu chop that notion away and step up to the phenomenal stacks of flavor served at Soul Foo Young.

At the festive, soul food-meets-Asian eatery on Las Vegas’ westside, the combo egg foo young entrée arrives as hockey puck-thick disks packed with hunks of pork, whole shrimp, chopped chicken breast and mung bean sprouts, all bound together with the namesake scrambled egg. On the side, there’s plenty of scratch-made brown gravy and steamed white rice for a base. It’s a satisfying, savory blend of proteins and carbs.

The pork inside Soul Foo Young’s egg cakes isn’t minced Chinese char siu, though. It’s hefty hunks of down-home Southern American barbecue rib meat, as the mom ’n’ pop nook has Louisiana-via-southside Chicago roots. As for that smooth gravy, it’s delicately salted without a lump to be found. No soy sauce needed. A small but very filling order brings two of these weighty tartlets for $8.95; a large means a whopping four foo for $12.95.

For a side dish, handcrafted chicken egg rolls ($1.50 each) are a nice touch. They’re some of the crispiest and prettiest in town, with nary a trace of oil on their bubbled, nicely browned exteriors. Beyond that, consider the awesomely named house specialty: the Bruce Leroy, or crispy chicken wings with fried rice.

SOUL FOO YOUNG 1216 W. Owens Ave., 702-539-0333. Tuesday-Friday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-6 p.m.

Tags: Dining, Food
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