"Good food for good people." That’s been Chef Natalie Young’s tagline since she opened Eat in 2012. If you’ve dined at the Downtown breakfast and lunch favorite, you know Young makes food that warms from the inside out. And if you haven’t, well, where have you been the past seven years?
Young later launched a Chinese-ish spot, Chow, Downtown and a second Eat in Summerlin. The former transitioned into a catering and pop-up business, but that hasn’t stopped the chef from making moves. Young’s latest venture, an American eatery called Old Soul, feels like the perfect addition to her catalog—the equivalent of an older, more refined sibling who ends the day with a barrel-aged whiskey and a medium-rare steak.
That isn’t to say Old Soul isn’t playful. There are nods to Prohibition-era Americana, projections of silent films featuring Charlie Chaplin, a handsome oak bar surrounded by taxidermy foxes and deer horns on exposed brick, and enough Southern charm to impress your grumpy uncle. The space itself feels large, but the location-—the World Market Center spot once occupied by Mundo—could provide a built-in crowd of Smith Center showgoers and beyond. And the food is well worth supporting.
Old Soul’s menu is approachable without being predictable, blending East Coast dishes with Southern-style flair. For example, the smoked trout appetizer ($14) swaps corn cakes in place of traditional latkes. That nod to soul food pops up throughout the menu, in starters like fried green tomatoes ($8) and fried oysters ($17) and entrées such as liver and onions ($20). Don’t fret if you didn’t grow up on these old American staples; there’s plenty more to explore, like grilled branzino ($27) with wilted arugula and house-made chimichurri, or braised short rib risotto ($24) with English peas and truffle oil. The bread pudding ($8) with pineapple and vanilla ice cream is killer, too. Order one with a French press to share—or skip dessert and go straight for an after-dinner cocktail, like a true old soul.
Old Soul 495 S. Grand Central Parkway #A116, 702-534-0999, Monday-Saturday, noon-9 p.m.