Here’s a first-of-its-kind culinary concept in town: a ghost kitchen. To Be Frank, which serves specialty hot dogs and sausages, has recently taken over the kitchen at Every Grain, chef Sheridan Su’s rice concept in the Huntridge neighborhood Downtown—but only during evening hours.
It’s a clever arrangement for both Su and the family-run Sound Food Group, which operates To Be Frank. Every Grain is open only until 2:45 p.m. Monday through Friday, and To Be Frank, which offers only takeout, delivery and catering, starts its shift at 5 p.m.
To Be Frank is all about the dogs, both “out-of-the-box flavor profiles but also some more straightforward and recognizable ones,” according to SFG culinary director Jordan Camacho. You won’t find over-steamed ballpark fare here; the meats are sourced from Nueske, a third-generation family-owned meat purveyor in Wisconsin, and the Isaan sausages come all the way from Thailand. The buns are freshly made by a local baker.
Start with the Classic ($7), a no-fuss frank on a bun. Add a perfectly tangy sauerkraut and goldenaise (made with Kewpie mayo, seasoned soy sauce, mustard powder, parsley and chives) for the namesake To Be Frank dog ($8). Pair with the potato salad side and some coleslaw ($4 each), and you’ve got an all-American feast.
From there, the menu turns more global. The Bahn Mi ($10) faithfully re-creates its Vietnamese roots, with pork paté, goldenaise, pickled carrots and daikon, and cilantro nestling the dog. The Basque ($10), with chorizo, piperrada, banana Dijon, crispy shallots and chives, has a sweet little kick, as does the Kimchi ($9), with a soy glaze, creamy gochujang, white kimchi and scallion relish.
Don’t miss the Thai sausage ($8), which has one of the most complex flavor combinations on the menu. Isaan sausages are a popular street food in Thailand, and here it’s topped with green papaya slaw, Kewpie mayo, red onion, toasted peanuts and crunchy potatoes. This particular dog is a filling meal, but you’ll want another just as soon as you finish one.
There are several sides on the menu from which to choose, including a Texas-style chili and French onion dip ($4 each), and bacon lardons can be added to any dog.
TO BE FRANK 1430 E. Charleston Blvd., 702-246-2350, Monday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight, tobefranklv.com.
