With five strategically scattered Las Vegas locations and expansion continuing in Dallas and Salt Lake City, SkinnyFats is on a roll. The original creative concept—which splits the menu into “healthy” and “happy” options—has evolved into a truly tasty and welcoming neighborhood eatery, instrumental in the company’s success and growth.

I’ll admit that I haven’t been a SkinnyFats regular since my first taste in 2013, mostly because I know I’ll always choose a naughty dish instead of the healthier alternative. Now that the pandemic has most of us rethinking our eating habits, I’ve rediscovered this fun fast-casual destination and developed an appreciation for its menu.

In my mind, this was a place for salads and bowls. But the current roster is stacked with sandwiches, and even the less-caloric choices pack plenty of flavor. Caes’ the Day ($11)—essentially a grilled chicken Caesar wrap in a spinach tortilla—is my go-to, thanks to crisp greens, plenty of creamy avocado, a terrific vegan dressing and pickled red onions. On the naughty side, the Blaze of Thunder chicken sandwich ($13)—which powered a drive-thru pop-up at the Henderson location last year—is one of the most decadent bites I’ve had in years. The crunchy, spicy, Nashville-style fried chicken breast is layered with coleslaw and pickles on a super-sweet Hawaiian roll, and we don’t deserve the richness.

That same roll houses the Wake n’ Bacon breakfast sandwich ($11), another indulgence with bacon, egg, pepper Jack cheese, avocado and sriracha cream cheese, but the lighter AvocaToast ($10), on nine-grain toast with pesto, feta and roasted tomato, is equally delicious. If you don’t feel like a sandwich, check out the crunchy Corn Identity ($9), an arugula salad with roasted corn and pumpkin seeds, mint, queso fresco, cilantro-lime dressing and Corn Nuts, or the Smoke in a Bowl ($11) with barbecued chicken, roasted veggies and black bean pico de gallo.

SKINNYFATS Hours vary, multiple locations, skinnyfats.com.