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Dining

Why can’t we stop eating this salsa?

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Try this.
Photo: L.E. Baskow

One bowl should be enough. If you ask for more, you’re putting your entrée in jeopardy. That’s a bad move at Frank & Fina’s, where everything from chile verde enchiladas to citrus-roasted chicken to veggie taquitos will leave you happy and full. But you’ll still put it all at risk for another dish of the brilliantly balanced table salsa with another basket of warm corn chips. You can’t think your way out of this one. You know it’s just roasted tomatoes and chilies, cilantro and onion and lime and salt. Simple stuff, right? So why is it so addictive? How do they find the crucial ratios of smooth to chunky, spicy to sweet, roasty to fresh? And how come a spoonful of this salsa goes great on absolutely anything you might order? That joyful chips-and-salsa anticipation that comes with a visit to any Mexican restaurant is multiplied exponentially at Frank & Fina’s. Three bowls should be enough, right?

Frank & Fina’s Cocina 4175 S. Grand Canyon Drive, 579-3017.

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Brock Radke has been working in media in Las Vegas for 15 years. Prior to being named associate editor, he ...

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