Taste

Bite Now: Barolo braised beef cheeks at Glutton

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Glutton’s barolo-braised beef cheek with shaved black truffle.
Photo: Brock Radke

Fall is here, and it’s time for real food. Things that get slow-roasted. Things that stew and simmer for hours until their layers of flavor permeate the air, luring you closer to the kitchen. Things that get braised.

Glutton is a great place for braises. Sure, the name of the Downtown restaurant kinda gives that away; everything chef Bradley Manchester creates is so delicious, there will be guilt. His new, perfect fall dish ($26) is indulgence personified. A creamy bed of Yukon Gold potato and horseradish purée provides the foundation for a rich, tender brick of beef cheeks braised in robust Barolo, still known as one of Italy’s greatest wines due to its Nebbiolo grapes and long fermentation. The complexities of the wine come through in the reduction sauce that drapes the plate, and you won’t resist the urge to douse each supple bite of meat with the slightly sweet elixir. Crisp root veggies and shaved black truffles top it off, adding fresh, earthy flavors. If only you could have this at home for Thanksgiving instead of that bland, dry bird.

There are more than a few interesting restaurants in Downtown Las Vegas these days, but Glutton has been a little overlooked. You don’t want to be the last to discover how truly excellent Manchester’s food can be.

Glutton 616 E. Carson Ave. #110, 702-366-0623. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m.

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Brock Radke

Brock Radke has been writing about Las Vegas for almost two decades. He currently serves as editor-at-large covering entertainment and ...

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