Las Vegas residents or visitors might have sampled Ismaele Romano’s food at Eataly at Park MGM, the short-lived but exceptional Contento Pizzeria & Bar at Jerry’s Nugget or at the recent Vegas Unstripped event in the Arts District. But the Sicilian-born chef and winner of the World Sandwich Championship at the 2021 International Pizza Expo is more accessible than ever at a brand-new venue offering simple-yet-irresistible cuisine very close to his heart.
Romano teamed with the Ellis Island Casino just east of the Strip to create Via Focaccia, a casual counter specializing in incredible sandwiches and also offering “basically all the things you need for an incredible Italian picnic,” says general manager Christina Ellis.
Ellis Island discovered Romano through Metro Pizza founder John Arena, who has operated the other fast-casual kiosk at the casino for years. “We knew we wanted to put something into that space that was homemade with an emphasis on ingredients, and once Ismaele started making the focaccia, it was a done deal,” Ellis says.
Romano grew up eating similar sandwiches for breakfast and lunch, stopping at the neighborhood bakery or deli in the morning to choose one from those countertops, or buying prosciutto, mozzarella and more and building his own sandwiches at home.
“It’s one of the most simple foods with a lot of flavor, if you make it right,” he says. “But the sandwiches we’re making here are very different.”
Via Focaccia’s sandwiches are similar to those from legendary Florence restaurant Osteria All’Antico Vinaio, which has expanded across Italy and held a pop-up shop in New York two years ago. The difference is the bread—All’Antico Vinaio uses its own twist on focaccia called schiacciata; Romano’s is his own time-tested recipe.
“I make focaccia at home, but this recipe is for the store because we don’t have a lot of space or a lot of time,” he says. “We had to develop a recipe that can be produced in a smaller amount of time without destroying the fundamentals of a good focaccia, light and crispy.”
An 18-hour fermentation keeps the bread incredibly light and tasty. It also makes it difficult to stop eating the focaccia. Signature sandwiches include cotto ham and fontina cheese with bechamel ($9); the San Giovanni ($10) with soppressata, arugula and sweet pepper spread; the Genovese ($10) with roasted eggplant, fresh burrata and pesto aioli; and a heartier option with fried chicken cutlet, eggplant, fontina, arugula and lemon garlic aioli ($10).
Via Focaccia also offers doughnuts and pastries from Henderson’s Carl’s Donuts, salads, beer and cocktails, coffee and a few fried treats like pasta arancini with salumi ragu ($4).
Feasting on this artisanal fare right off the casino floor is a rare experience anywhere in Las Vegas. “When you make good bread and a good sandwich in Sicily, it doesn’t matter if you’re poor or rich, you need to have good food in your life,” Romano says. “That’s one of the most important things. And this is good, very simple, easy and affordable.”
VIA FOCACCIA Ellis Island Casino, 702-733-8901. Daily, 9 a.m.-10 p.m.
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