Taste

Cozy Henderson spot Aroma has all the Latin flavors you need

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You won’t leave Aroma hungry.
Photo: Christopher DeVargas

I’ve had it up to here with you Henderson people. Never again should I hear you claim you don’t have enough great places to eat in your suburban city. That hasn’t been a true statement for years now, but I continue to hear it, even though seemingly every time I try a new restaurant in Henderson, I’m blown away by the food and overall experience.

My latest discovery is at the corner of Sunset Road and Green Valley Parkway, an intersection at the heart of this neighborhood’s dining scene for decades. And I didn’t discover it as much as I finally paid a visit to a small, charming restaurant that several friends had passionately recommended in recent months.

And then I took a seat at Aroma Latin American Cocina and promptly devoured the best steak taco I’ve ever had.

Piled atop two thin, griddle-crisp tortillas with a drizzle of salsa verde, queso fresco, pico de gallo, avocado and pickled onions rested a mountain of perfectly seasoned and cooked steak, far more tender than the average carne asada. It could be a complete lunch by itself, a steal at $6.

Considering the pedigree of chef and owner Steve Kestler, who has worked in the kitchens of Bazaar Meat, Bouchon and EDO Tapas, it’s not surprising that something so simple is given the ultimate treatment at Aroma. But the tacos—also available with pork belly or fried avocado ($5)—are only the beginning at this versatile, casual eatery, which skillfully tours through Guatemalan, Cuban, Peruvian and other Latin cuisines.

Start with the summer-appropriate, bright and fresh mangonada salad ($12.50), loaded with mango, jicama and cashews in a fun Chamoy-accented dressing. Shrimp ceviche ($16) is served with fresh “tostadita” chips and packed with avocado and a cucumber-celery pico for fresh crunch. The Guatemalan enchilada ($10) is another flavor-bomb of a starter that could fill you up, with beef picadillo, hard-boiled egg, cotija cheese and  pickled beets.

Revisit that incredible steak on the Gaucho sandwich ($18), or indulge in the slow-roasted pork that serves as the foundation for an excellent, authentic Cubano ($16) at lunchtime. Then come back for dinner, where Kestler’s entrées really shine. His take on lomo saltado ($20) uses beef tenderloin, an upgrade on the Peruvian tradition also served with sushi rice and an aji amarillo cream sauce. Chicken tinga chilaquiles ($16) are an any-time-of-day dish here, and the mole beef short ribs ($20), with roasted sweet potatoes and esquites corn salad, might be the showstopper on the menu.

You have amazing food in your ’hood, Henderson people. Try Aroma, if you haven’t already, but don’t thank me; thank this talented and ambitious chef and his team.

AROMA LATIN AMERICAN COCINA 2877 N. Green Valley Parkway, 702-610-2727, aromalatincocina.thefoodygram.com. Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.

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Tags: Dining, Food
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Brock Radke

Brock Radke is an award-winning writer and columnist who currently occupies the role of managing editor at Las Vegas Weekly ...

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