Taste

Spanish and Italian cuisines commingle at Las Vegas standout Anima by EDO

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Anima’s cured tuna sashimi
Photo: Wade Vandervort

Surely, we can all agree that team-ups are the best. Jason and Freddy. Deadpool and Cable. The Golden Girls. All three Spider-Men (spoiler alert!).

Here in the Valley, we have our own super-powered team-up of sorts at Anima by EDO. Born from the union of Roberto Liendo and Oscar Amador from Spanish favorite EDO Tapas & Wine and former Ferraro’s executive chef Francesco di Caudo, Anima recently opened in the southwest Valley at the Gramercy. And it’s fabulous.

Anima’s croquetas, braised beef cheeks, farro and haricots verts, cured tuna sashimi and truffle cavatelli

Anima—both the Spanish and Italian word for soul—lives up to its name; the restaurant exudes soul as it blends Amador and di Caudo’s cooking heritages. From Amador, EDO highlights dot the menu, ranging from the vegan’s dream green tartare to the infamous bikinis, which are just as good here. But Anima is not simply EDO redux, evidenced from the delightful Italian options.

Begin with a surprising favorite, the farro and haricots verts ($13). Even if you’re not a salad person, this one hits on all levels, simultaneously salty and sweet, acidic and earthy, creamy and crunchy in each bite. Don’t skip past this instant classic.

Another hit is the bagna cauda ($16), though it might not appeal to everyone. The traditional fondue-like dish from Italy’s Piedmont region is a pungent blend of anchovies and garlic, served with fried polenta sticks and crudité. For those of us enamored by both garlic or anchovies, it’s an epiphany.

Contrasting that traditional dish is di Caudo’s unorthodox take on eggplant parmigiana ($18). Whereas many eggplant dishes retain the ingredient’s characteristic firmness, in this one it’s cooked down to a semisoft consistency. Tucked under a piquant parmigiano espuma and a sprinkling of tomato powder finished with a basil crisp, it delivers a surprising texture in a dreamy cheese sauce made for sopping.

There are a multitude of sauces worth savoring among di Caudo’s handmade pastas. Truffle cavatelli ($28) is finished with flair tableside, bone marrow scooped directly into the bowl and mixed with the miniature shells strewn with salty salchichón—a Spanish summer sausage—and English peas, endowing the dish with umami complementing its inherent earthiness. Ask to keep the bone for a whiskey luge later, if you’d like.

Equally impressive is the leek and napa cabbage raviolini ($24). And lest you think that’s too vegetarian a dish, it’s finished in a decidedly non-vegetarian foie gras sauce that contrasts the slightly sweet ravioli stuffing.

After dinner, you might be in need of a digestif, so call over the amari cart, which features more than 30 brands of Italian herbal liqueurs. China-China, an orange-tinged amaro actually pronounced “cheena cheena,” is just one recommendation. If only DC team-ups could be as successful as EDO’s.

ANIMA BY EDO 9205 W. Russell Road #185, 702-202-4291, animabyedo.com. Thursday-Tuesday, 5-9 p.m.

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Tags: Dining, Food
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