A fixture of the Vegas Valley dining scene since 2004, Table 34 has successfully mixed a robust lunch business with a steady crowd of dinner regulars for two decades. Batch Hospitality—a partnership between Evan Glusman of Piero’s fame and industry veteran Constantin Alexander—recently took over as the new management group, and after undertaking a somewhat radical interior renovation, the restaurant’s revival is close to complete.
Batch was more cautious when it came to shifting the menu, so as not to alienate the southeast spot’s loyal fanbase. The cocktail program was ripe for improvement, however, and the gregarious Alexander, probably best known as the former director of beverage for Hakkasan Group, was the right man for the job.
Updates have been subtle but noticeable, ranging from a thoughtfully expanded liquor selection to a newfound focus on classics made with fresh ingredients. Stocked with a handful of house-made concoctions, the new beverage program has become a strong off-Strip option.
We asked Alexander to walk through the menu with pairings in mind. And while you might not be able to order a Buddha’s Palm—a fabulous creation from his Hakkasan days—the cocktail impresario has some fine suggestions to go with executive chef Joe Valdez’s updated dishes.
Sesame BBQ Pork Belly ($18) + Kentucky Mule ($14)
Valdez’s pork belly is rich but not unctuous, sweet but not cloying. A great way to start a Table 34 tour, the addictive appetizer’s Asian-inspired sesame-tahini barbecue sauce reminds Alexander of Southern barbecue, and that region’s Kentucky mule—a straightforward combination of bourbon, lime juice and ginger beer—could be considered a traditional pairing. The ginger cuts the swine’s fattiness, allowing you to sneak in another bite before moving on with your meal.
Baby Romaine Caesar ($13) + French Squeezed ($14)
A salad and cocktail pairing might sound unorthodox, but there’s no denying this combo. Table 34’s Caesar, arguably one of the city’s best renditions, is rife with flavor, the anchovy-tinged dressing dotted with crunchy-yet-chewy herbed croutons that don’t overpower the dish. The herbal qualities of the French Squeezed—a house cocktail combining Lillet Blanc apertif with a juicy mixture of apricot liqueur, passion fruit syrup and pineapple and lime juices—balances the salad’s funkiness.
Shrimp Scampi ($34) + Basil Grapefruit Martini ($15)
If you have some French Squeezed left from your salad course, continue on—its herbaceousness parrots that of the scampi. But if you finished it, the house-made linguini, served in buttery lemon beurre blanc, pairs swimmingly with the refreshing Basil Grapefruit Martini. The cocktail’s citric acidity mirrors that of the pasta, while the drink’s basil infusion refreshes the palate.
Niman Ranch Prime NY Strip ($52) + Vieux Carre ($15)
Alexander espouses the virtues of whiskey as a classic steak pairing, so for Table 34’s New York strip, he suggests a classic New Orleans cocktail—the Vieux Carre. The timeless libation blends brandy, rye whiskey, Benedictine and Carpano Antica sweet vermouth, and its sharpness complements the prime cut, seasoned simply with a salt and pepper rub and cooked in thyme, garlic, butter and sage. The accompanying steak sauce, combining coffee, honey and molasses, is quite fetching, but as is the case with most good steaks, perhaps superfluous. Your Vieux Carre, on the other hand, is an essential addition.
TABLE 34 600 E. Warm Springs Road #180, 702-263-0034, table34lasvegas.com. Lunch: Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner: Tuesday-Saturday, 4:30-9 p.m.
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