Those who know me know my fascination with okonomiyaki, a Japanese street food akin to savory pancakes not readily available in the States. I may have lamented, right here in the Weekly, the lack of this dish in our otherwise incredible local Japanese cuisine.
And like many of you, I am equally enamored with izakayas—Japanese drinking establishments with food which are certainly more common, but not ubiquitous. So when I noticed the opening of an okonomiyaki izakaya on Spring Mountain Road months ago, I couldn’t have been happier—and it does not disappoint.
Fugetsu Okonomiyaki Izakaya, a chain originating from Osaka, first opened with an a la carte-only menu and a blackboard of daily specials. It has since transitioned to all-you-can-eat while maintaining the a la carte menu. While the opening setup was certainly edgier, it’s still a unique dining destination.
It might take a doctorate to explain all the iterations of AYCE policies, ranging in price from $27 to $40 in addition to drink packages and add-ons. So simplify and choose depending upon your tastes and appetites, because any AYCE option allows for half-price on a handful of premium dishes; handpicking and paying for premiums at the lower price may work to your benefit.
Begin with the garlic edamame ($7), smoky, garlicky, and emanating of umami. Equally worthwhile is the ribeye beef tataki ($10), wading in a sharp ponzu sauce. A real treat is asparagus with mayo cheese ($6.50) because you get credit for eating your grilled vegetables even when they’re swaddled in a delicious mayonnaise-cheese concoction. And don’t overlook the spicy chili tofu ($4.50) with a surprising kick.
There are numerous menu sections, ranging from sashimi—which includes savory seared ankimo ($9.50), aka monkfish liver, essentially the foie gras of the sea—and sushi rolls to grilled dishes and takoyaki, although the kushiyaki skewers seem to have slipped off the menu.
But the star of the show is that okonomiyaki. One of my cardinal rules as both a food writer and prolific eater is when a restaurant has a dish in its name, you must try it. My go-to okonomiyaki is the pork version ($14) topped with cheese ($3.50), and always upgrade to modanyaki ($3.50), adding noodles. You’ll get a cabbage and flour pancake layered with meat and cheese atop griddled noodles.
For fancier tastes, the unagi ikura ($26) combines freshwater eel and salmon roe for the essence of the ocean. Regardless your choice, you’ll love it.
With an ample sake menu—I’m a fan of the Dewazakura Dewasanan, if you’re looking for a suggestion—and other Japanese alcohol options befitting an izakaya, you’ll have plenty of libations to whet your palate. So there’s no reason not to grab a group of friends and get a round of okonomiyaki in a dive into Osakan street food right here in the Vegas Valley.
FUGETSU OKONOMIYAKI IZAKAYA 5600 Spring Mountain Road #A, 702-405-7010, fugetsu-lasvegas.com. Monday-Sunday, noon-10 p.m.
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