Reviews

Henderson breakfast-lunch spot Served does it all and then some

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The softshell crab Benedict is calling you.
Photo: Mikayla Whitmore

Chef-driven concepts keep popping up in and around Henderson, a promising development for a one-time bedroom community still creating its dining identity. The latest is Served, an ambitious breakfast and lunch spot from Matt Meyer, a Southern California transplant who has already taken a few swings in this neighborhood. He opened the former Matteo’s Gourmet Cafe three years ago, and more recently has been catering around Vegas and SoCal.

At Served, Meyer goes above and beyond, tossing Asian and Latin flavors into the mix of a massive menu. This might be the first restaurant in history to serve Korean galbi tacos, Salvadoran pupusas, Peruvian lomo saltado and a classic, juicy cheeseburger. It’s impressive that all of the diverse dishes we’ve tried have been successful.

If I told you to drive to the suburbs for $18 eggs benny, you’d scoff. But it’s a beautifully battered tempura soft-shell crab benny with perfectly poached eggs, well-seasoned potatoes and miso hollandaise, a monster of a plate. French toast ($16) is actually baked and griddled bread pudding with berries and bourbon glaze. Even a simple side of bacon ($4) equals several slabs of brown sugar and black pepper-coated deliciousness. Decent Filipino breakfast plates are also available ($12)—longanisa sausage or tocino bacon with eggs, garlic fried rice and pickled papaya.

Lunch finds a varied feast, with sandwiches like the pork belly banh mi ($13); burgers like the “Wellington” ($20) with mushrooms, potato strings, Swiss cheese and foie gras butter; and tacos of crispy fish, shrimp, pork belly and more. There’s a Korean barbecue plate ($16), an island-style dish of crispy chicken wings with rice and macaroni salad ($11) and a red panang curry with Scottish salmon ($19). If the options overwhelm you, consider starting your Served expedition with the fusion-y Asian BLAT ($14)—Texas toast layered with pork belly, arugula tossed in light miso vinaigrette, tomato and avocado, a rich and texturally sublime sandwich.

Served joins recent Henderson-area additions like Craft Kitchen, Standard & Pour and Kitchen Table as inventive spots that deserve our attention.

Served 1770 W. Horizon Ridge Parkway #100, 702-263-0136. Monday-Friday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday, 7 a.m.-4 p.m.

Tags: Dining, Food
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Brock Radke has been writing about Las Vegas for more than 15 years. He currently covers entertainment, music, nightlife, food ...

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