There are two new destination restaurants leading the Monte Carlo’s transition into Park MGM. While most Monte Carlo restaurants opened up to the casino, the first Park MGM restaurants, Primrose and Bavette’s, feel like separate entities. Each has a passageway leading into an uncommon universe of dining and drinking in a sophisticated environment. That approach makes a big difference.
Primrose is located right off the new hotel lobby and includes a handsome bar, a charming library suitable for anytime lounging and a brunch-ready patio adjacent to the pool. There are French country-home influences on the menu and in the dining room, making everything feel warm and soft in a fresh, springtime way.
Primrose marks the Strip’s latest manifestation of the casino three-mealer, but it’s no utilitarian 24-hour coffee shop. Daytime’s when you want to eat here, when tasty breakfast, brunch and lunch menus blur together. Simple dishes get exquisite touches like bruléed French toast ($12) and buttermilk pancakes with almond cream and maple syrup ($14). You can’t lose with the “grilled cheese” section, especially a decadent Croque Madame saturated with gruyére ($17). There’s a toast menu, too; spring for cucumber and labneh with preserved lemon and dill. The house share platter ($25) is delicious anytime, a feast of charcuterie selections with mustards and tapenades.
Simplicity done well is the Primrose way, even more evident when you’re eating lunch or dinner. Easy appetizer hits include the mozzarella croquette with a rich tomato sauce ($12) and fried chicken Provençal, perfect chicken tenders spiked with herbs de Provence and served with a bright spring onion aoli ($17). There’s shortrib ravioli ($36) and a dry-aged burger ($17) for serious appetites and simply grilled meats and fish ($21-$36) for lighter eaters.
Be sure to order the delightful vegetable side dishes, including roasted eggplant or thyme-sautéed wild mushrooms. End with a refreshing green apple granite with fluffy almond cream.
Primrose Monte Carlo, 702-730-6600. Sunday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 7 a.m.-midnight.