I’ll often take the bike instead of the car. I live roughly a mile and a half from Main Street and can be there in 10 minutes, even if I roll out at a poky pace. Sometimes, locals arrange giant group rides on weeknights—100, 200 bikes, easy—and occasionally I’ll merge with that crowd, one LED light-festooned bike among many.

Some riders have Bluetooth speakers in their baskets, and I’ll change positions in the pack, like switching stations on a radio, to listen to the music: pedaling faster to catch Slash’s solo on “Nightrain,” slowing up to hear Chaka Khan punch out the chorus of “Ain’t Nobody.” Instead of leaning on their horns, drivers give friendly waves or film the pack with their phones.

That’s my neighborhood. It hardly seems real sometimes. Just 20 years ago, it wasn’t. In the early 2000s, the 18 Downtown blocks the City of Las Vegas now calls the 18b Arts District was little more than industrial suppliers, abandoned storefronts and antique shops.

The antique shops remain, but Main Street now offers a staggering variety of additional experiences under its zig-zagging canopy of string lights, from craft breweries to bistros to storefront theaters. Murals and wheatpaste art have transformed its side streets and alleyways into walking galleries. Its business owners like and support one another. And the 18b’s prevailing mood, even on busy Saturday nights, is neighborly, chill and resolutely local. This is a place where you can walk—or ride—up the street and run into someone you actually want to see.

If you haven’t visited Main Street recently, or explored much of the 18b Arts District beyond First Friday’s festival grounds, it’s about time that we talked. You’re missing out on something great—a hip, urban experience, on par with those we sometimes travel to other cities to enjoy. Speaking as someone who has visited more than his share of hipster neighborhoods—and even lived in one of them, for the better part of a decade, in Seattle—I’d like to offer you a casual introduction to the Downtown I like best. Get on your bike, and let’s head out.

A quick pair of disclaimers: I’ll use “Main Street,” “Arts District” and “18b” interchangeably throughout this tour. Though most of the places I’ll mention here are on Main Street, some are located in those 18 surrounding blocks—though close enough to Main Street to belong to it. And I apologize in advance for leaving out any businesses that might deserve notice—and for not giving the ones I do mention the full extent of the love they deserve. Over the past few years, this neighborhood has grown from “give me a few recommendations” to “write me a guidebook.” I’ll try to land somewhere in the middle.

GETTING AROUND

The easiest way to get to Main Street, aside from riding your beloved Schwinn, is via I-15. Take the Charleston Boulevard exit and head east.

Main recently became a one-way street, so to get to the head of it, make a right onto South Commerce Street, head up to West Wyoming Avenue and make two left turns; that will put you very near the beginning of Main. (You could also turn left onto California, Colorado, Imperial or Utah Avenues and catch Main, but if you’re headed down there for the first time, you ought to start at the top.)

Parking on and around Main varies between parallel and angle-in spots. If you’re confident in your parallel parking skills, grab the first spot you see on Commerce or Main with confidence, knowing you’re within easy walking distance of most everything.

You’ll find the angle-in spots on the side streets—California, Colorado and Casino Center are your best bets. And should all else fail, there’s a paid lot behind ReBar. (The City of Las Vegas is in the process of adding more paid lots). Street parking is not metered, but take care not to overstay the posted time limits. Parking enforcement doesn’t sleep on this stuff.

If you’d like to park elsewhere Downtown but still enjoy what Main Street has to offer, the City operates a free Downtown Loop shuttle that runs a twisty route between the Strat and Circa, with stops at the Arts District, the Fremont East district and Symphony Park along the way.

The Downtown Loop runs Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, 3 to 10 p.m. (A special City Hall-to-Main Street route runs for First Friday, if you’d like to take advantage of City Hall’s giant paid garage.) A complete route map, and a real-time shuttle location tracker, can be found at bit.ly/3BaeH9n.

I almost forgot the rental bikes. RTC rents cruiser and electric bikes beginning at $5 a day (bikeshare.rtcsnv.com), and from recent experience I can tell you that there’s no better way to explore Main Street than from the seat of a bike. (And if you’d like to join up with one of the group rides I mentioned previously, seek out the Las Vegas Bike Rides/Cruises group on Facebook.)

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

Main Street came out of the pandemic lockdowns with more bars than it had going in, thanks in no small part to the shock-and-awe arrival of craft beer. First-on-the-street brewery and taproom Hop Nuts (1120 S. Main St. #150) has been joined by Beer District Brewing (914 S. Main St.), Able Baker Brewing (1510 S. Main St.), Nevada Brew Works (1327 S. Main St. #160) and HUDL Brewing Company (1327 S. Main St. #100). All of these places have indoor and outdoor seating, offer an astonishing number of local, national and international taps, and host live entertainment ranging from trivia nights to live music.

While they don’t brew on-site, CraftHaus operates an Arts District taproom (197 E. California Ave. #130). Three Sheets (1115 S. Casino Center Blvd.) offers 30 taps and a chill space to watch the Raiders and Golden Knights. Silver Stamp (222 E. Imperial Ave.) isn’t just a solid beer bar, but a Westworld-quality dive into 1970s Americana. (That rumpus-room wood paneling! That tower of vintage beer cans!) And Servehzah (1301 S. Commerce St. #130) boasts 24 taps, a patio that peeks into Conrad West Gallery and a chilled, walk-in “beer cave” filled with craft beers from near and far.

All the places just mentioned have something in common: They’re run by people who know lots and lots about adult beverages, and are willing to talk folks through it. The same is true for Garagiste Wine Room & Merchant (197 E. California Ave. #140), where a spectacular wine list meets helpful explanation.

The 18b’s river of booze only widens from there, and takes a few turns you’d never expect. Cork & Thorn (70 W. Imperial Ave.) complements its wine selection with floral design classes and live music. Jammyland (1121 S. Main St.) serves up outstanding, tropical-inspired cocktails on a bed of reggae music and 24-hour jerk wings. LGBTQ lounge the Garden (1017 S. 1st St. #180) has courtyard seating and a weekly drag brunch with bottomless mimosas. Berlin (201 E. Charleston Blvd.) sustains you on a diet of hard liquor, killer post-punk sounds and gourmet hot dogs. True to its name, Horse Trailer Hideout (1506 S. Main St.) has a patio where its “industrial country-chic” trailer bars live when they’re not out in the world satiating thirsty cowpokes.

Some bars shift the entertainment to the foreground. Wiseguys (1511 S. Main St.) brings Vegas’ live comedy scene out of the tourist corridor. Level One Bar & Lounge (1410 S. Main St.) mixes things up with DJ nights and open-mic poetry. The entertainment offerings at Artifice (1025 S. 1st St. #100) are as expansive as the bar’s adjoining event space, ranging from live drawing classes to monthly goth night Scarlet. And Ninja Karaoke (1009 S. Main St.) serves up soju, specialty cocktails and a menu of 154,000 songs to belt out after you’ve drunk past your inhibitions.

Finally, there’s ReBar (1225 S. Main St.), the splendid bar/antique shop hybrid whose happy hour specials and funky vibe have few local equals, and the wonderfully gothic craft cocktail bar Velveteen Rabbit (1218 S. Main St.,), whose sibling owners might actually be magic. These two bars are my go-tos, my “locals.” If you want to find me in the Arts District, you should try one of these places first. If I’m not there, check the restaurants.

Dining

Dining in the 18b is almost unbelievably good. Don’t take my word for it; just try to score a seat at Italian bistro Esther’s Kitchen (1130 S. Casino Center Blvd. #110), sushi bar Yu-Or-Mi (100 E. California Ave.), American comfort food spot Main St. Provisions (1214 S. Main St.) or Brooklyn-style pizzeria Good Pie (1212 S. Main St.) on a weekend night without calling ahead. Between those four places, there are enough Yelp stars to rival the heavens, and they’re all deserved.

That’s just the beginning of the sublime food options in the 18b. Want a delicious vegan taco? Try Tacotarian (1130 S. Casino Center Blvd. #170). How about a savory meat pie? Cornish Pasty (10 E. Charleston Blvd.) awaits your custom. The empanadas at Makers & Finders (1120 S. Main St. #110) are the stuff of dreams. Taverna Costera (1031 S. Main St.) is dishing up Mediterranean-inspired seafood and tapas. The small-but-mighty D E Thai Kitchen (1108 S. 3rd St.) cooks up a dynamite bowl of drunken noodles. And the rib-sticking fries at 18bin (107 E. Charleston Blvd. #150) are available with a staggering variety of seasonings and sauces.

You’re even afforded variety within cuisines. Some nights I crave the cochinita pibil and fresh-made horchata at Letty’s de Leticia’s Cocina (807 S. Main St.), while other nights, nothing sounds better than a devouring a plate of camarones al mojo de ajo underneath a portrait of Frida Kahlo at Casa Don Juan (1204 S. Main St.). If I want Texas-inspired barbecue, I have my choice of the brisket at SoulBelly BBQ (1327 S. Main St.) or the pulled pork at Braeswood (1504 S. Main St.), both of which thoroughly satisfy. And the universe has bestowed upon this former Seattleite not one, but three great coffee spots: Golden Fog (1300 S. Casino Center Blvd. #110), Bungalow (201 E. Charleston Blvd., #180) and Vesta (1114 S. Casino Center Blvd. #1), where they know my face and my order.

Dessert is the last part of the picture, but it’s beginning to fill in. Paradise City Creamery (paradisecitycreamery.com) serves its plant-based, gluten-free ice cream from a pop-up location near Garagiste. Nearby, old-fashioned ice cream soda shop Cream Me (1203 S. Main St.) draws lines that push out onto the sidewalk. And an 18b location of Freed’s Dessert Shop, appointed with colorful mural work by Shan Michael Evans, should be open soon after you read this.

You don’t even have to try that hard to eat well in the 18b. ReBar serves loaded John Mull sausage and Field Roast dogs right at the bar. Nevada Brew Works and Able Baker both offer great bites from walk-up counters. And when I’m too hungry to think straight, I can always get a slice of Vincent Rotolo’s aptly-named Good Pie from the sidewalk slice window. On Main Street, good things are always within reach. Even from the back of a bike.

Galleries, theaters & museums

Though First Friday set this neighborhood in motion, the exploding popularity of the 18b Arts District has actually been rough for its galleries, many of which operate on razor-thin margins and are particularly susceptible to rent hikes. (It’s a testament to both Main Street’s growth and the stubborn durability of Vegas’ art scene that another Valley art hub—at the New Orleans Square complex inside Commercial Center—has formed from galleries and businesses that fled the Arts District when rents began to rise.)

Fortunately, many stalwarts remain. Priscilla Fowler Fine Art (1300 S. Main St. #110) is still here, as is Annex Gallery (1308 S. Main St.), Circadian Gallery (1551 S. Commerce St.), Conrad West Gallery (15 W. Colorado Ave.), Savidan Art Gallery (1310 S. 3rd St. #200) and the gallery of culture-jamming sociopolitical street artist Isaac Zevalking, better known as Recycled Propaganda (1114 S. Main St. #120).

Crossing Charleston, you’ll find two new art spaces—Main Street Studios (1056 S. Main St.) and its neighboring “performance gallery and artist’s lounge” Gallery 54 (1054 S. Main St.). And since you’re there, you might as well cross the street and check out the galleries of the Arts Factory (107 E. Charleston Blvd.), and Brett Wesley Gallery (1025 S. 1st St. #150) and Nevada Humanities (1017 S. 1st St. #190). Why wait for First Friday to enjoy, and perhaps even begin collecting, local and regional art?

The performing arts also have a strong Arts District presence. Majestic Repertory Theatre (1217 S. Main St.) stages interactive productions whose scope and ambition sometimes extend beyond its stage and into the alley behind the venue. Art Square Theater (1025 S. 1st St.) is home to Vegas Theatre Company (formerly Cockroach Theatre), a volunteer-run company that delivers smart productions of works by the likes of Harold Pinter and Larissa FastHorse, and to the fleet and funny improv comedy troupe Bleach.

While it’s not a performance venue, the Burlesque Hall of Fame (1027 S. Main St. #110) is steeped in theatrical tradition. This one-of-a-kind museum preserves the memory of classic burlesque through rare photographs, costume pieces and assorted bump-and-grind artifacts, and functions as an educational resource for anyone who has ever considered picking up the pasties.

Even more museums and performance spaces could find their way to the 18b in the near future. Sometime in the next year, Oddfellows operator Harvey Graham hopes to open Swan Dive, a 400-capacity live music venue, in a yet-to-be-completed building at 1301 S. Main St. Ethos, a café and theater, is “unveiling soon” near Main and California. And there are persistent rumors that the 18b might take the Evel Knievel Museum away from its current home in Topeka, Kansas. We’ve got more than enough room for one more bike.

Shopping

The 18b’s antique and vintage dealers call Main Street “Antique Alley.” They have a legit claim to the street; after all, they were there first, and there’s a lot of them, too many to list off here in detail. There’s (deep breath) Antique Alley Mall, Glam Factory Vintage, Main Street Peddlers, Martin’s Mart, Modern Mantiques, Retro Vegas and Red Kat Vintage … Just check out mainstreet.vegas/antiques.html and start digging for treasure.

The 18b’s vintage mojo is so strong, it’s attracting new vendors of old things. Authentik (1321 S. Commerce St.), from Eat/Old Soul owner Natalie Young, is a sharply-curated home furnishings boutique. (She often stocks restored typewriters. Sold.) An increasing number of boutiques—For the Love LV (1114 S. Main St.), Rockin’ Bettie (1302 S. 3rd St.) and Sabrak (1408 S. Main St.)—cater to the fashion-conscious. There are two dealers of vintage streetwear—Waves (1411 S. Main St.) and Bring It Back (1512 S. Main St. #1122), both with giant walls of collectible sneakers—and at least two buy/sell/trade clothing dealers: Alt Rebel (1409 S. Commerce St., #110), and the Vegas location of national chain Buffalo Exchange (1209 S. Main St.).

The gift boutiques are stacking up nicely, too. The Good Wolf Lifestyle Co. (1401 S. Commerce St.) has a winning assortment of apparel and home items. The bright, upbeat Local Oasis (220 E. Charleston Blvd.) offers art items and goodies from local makers. Jammin on Vegas (1401 S. Main St.) is all things tie-dye. The Honeypot (1409 S. Main St.) specializes in crystals and minerals, both as decoration and jewelry. And you can get the jump on next Halloween at Nightmare Toys (1309 S. Commerce St.), a crazy-fun horror movie emporium where Michael Myers is a whole mood.

I’m leaving out a lot of places, most of them service-related: urban gyms (Alley Fitness, Real Results), salons (Atomic Style Lounge, Makeshift Union), tattoo parlors (Koolsville, Hardline), flower shops (Gaia, Stinko’s) and more. Between them, you’ll come out of the 18b looking better than you did going in.

Main on Main: Where do the 18b’s business folk go when they’re not working?

PAMELA DYLAG, CO-OWNER, VELVETEEN RABBIT

“I love Bungalow and Vesta for their nitro cold brews—both are so good! I frequent all the antique shops on Main; Local Oasis for gifts; SoulBelly for their incredible barbecue; Esther’s, of course, for pasta; Main St. Provisions (I absolutely love their hominy hummus); Jammyland for amazing cocktails and late night food; the Good Wolf and Alt Rebel for fashion; Garagiste for their wine and impeccable customer service … Sorry, I’m naming off the whole neighborhood, but I really do love it all.”

JOSH MOLINA, CEO, MAKERS & FINDERS

“I’m a big fan of Servehzah. The beer list is always spot on and varied by region and style. There are food trucks [there] almost every night that never disappoint. Plus, their events are always fun. If you’re on the go like I usually am, pop into their beer cave for top-notch bottles and brews.”

DARBY FOX, CURATOR AND ARCHIVIST, BURLESQUE HALL OF FAME

“My favorite thing to do around Main Street is thrift-shop. The Red Kat and Glam Factory are the best vintage vendors in town, plus all of the smaller thrift and resale stores including Alt Rebel and the Buffalo Exchange. … [And] breakfast at Makers & Finders or a bougie meal at Esther’s Kitchen make a Downtown shopping trip perfectly complete.”

DEREK STONEBARGER, OWNER, REBAR

“I love Able Baker, Recycled Propaganda, Modern Mantiques, Priscilla Fowler Art Gallery, Retro Vegas, Jammyland and Good Pie. Who knew I needed that slice window so much?”

NATALIE YOUNG, OWNER, AUTHENTIK

“I love Yu-Or-Mi sushi; they’re super nice and their food is consistent. I also love the Antique Mall and Red Kat—my go-to spots. The Good Wolf is cool; Alley Fitness … Lots of good sh*t going on, with good people.”

MARC ABELMAN, CFO, INSIDE STYLE

“One of my favorite things to do is ride through the alleys, as they’re a living history of why the 18b started and what made us so interesting, and they’re [filled with] ever-changing street art. That’s one of my favorite parts of the 18b; Ras One (who commissioned many of the 18b’s original murals) was ahead of his time.”