The butter alone. If for no other reason—and there are plenty of other reasons, mes amis—you should visit Bar Boheme for a crackly baguette with a generous pat of Beurre de Rodolphe Le Meunier, a salted, positively velvety butter (88% butterfat!) that is, as our server put it, “basically a cheese.” The taste is rich, decadent, and a promise of things to come. Everything at Bar Boheme is a decadence. Everything is velvet.
A co-venture between chef James Trees and managing partner Keith Bracewell, Bar Boheme’s French menu bears a strong spiritual connection to Trees’ other Arts District favorite, Esther’s Kitchen. Both spots reclaim unusual buildings (Esther’s, a former furniture warehouse, Bar Boheme, a former garage) and make them into warm, inviting spaces with distinctive personalities and vibe, and both draw heavily on locally sourced ingredients and homegrown talents. And, once news of how good Bar Boheme’s food is begins to get out there, both will likely require reservations. C’est la guerre.
Mary’s Duck
There is no wrong place to begin, France’s finest butter notwithstanding. Try a cocktail from Jonah Gibbs’ terrific beverage program, which has been off and running for several months at Petite Boheme next door. The Citron et Basilic ($16), with Lillet Blanc, basil eau de vie and a kiss of dry vermouth, is as perfect a martini as has ever been made. It primes you for the mouthwatering terrines, canapes, soups and salads that top the menu, and for the outstanding seafood plates. You can’t go wrong with one of Boheme’s seafood towers, priced “petite” ($76) to “grande” ($195) and positively bursting with fresh, bright flavors: A scallop crudo with apple, grape, tarragon and verjus; a lobster cocktail with avocado and grapefruit served with fried Saltines; both east and west coast oysters and more.
Chef Sean O’Hara and chef de cuisine Jordon Dunewood ensure that the entrees and “plats principaux” have their own magic. The steak frites, available with an 8-ounce Bavette ($52), an 8-ounce filet mignon ($68) or a 32-ounce dry-aged entrecote (ribeye, $155), are seared to tender, buttery perfection, and the pommes frites are triple-fried and taste like they were picked and sliced just minutes before. Mary’s Duck ($45), served with Thumbelina carrots and an orange jus, figuratively melts in the mouth. Other temptations include a red wine-braised Boeuf Bourguignon ($48) served with pommes de terre au chèvre, and a Gnocchi a la Parisienne ($32) with melted leeks and a chervil bourson mushroom crème.
The entry level doesn’t have to be high as that, however. I can easily imagine grabbing a seat at Boheme’s bar and ordering the much talked-about burger, with its 7-ounce prime brisket and chuck patty, caramelized onions, New School American cheese and those nice, crunchy frites ($29), maybe even adding a sunny side egg for an additional $5. Or perhaps the onion soup ($21), topped with Emmentaler, Gruyère and Esther’s pillowy, perfect sourdough. Or you can simply order something intriguing from Elliot Erickson’s terrific wine list, take a healthy and intentional sip, and see where that leads you. At the very least, you’ll get an immediate craving for the city’s best bread and butter.
BAR BOHEME 1401 S. Main St., 702-848-6823, barbohemelv.com. Daily, 5 p.m.-11 p.m.
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