Our first Hunan restaurant relies on a holy trinity of smoked pork, garlic and incendiary hot peppers. The atmosphere’s not much, but the cooking is terrific; smoked pork with bamboo shoots, stir-fried smoked beef and fish-head casserole, not for the faint of heart. 3950 Schiff Drive. 387-7888. Daily, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.